How to cut a skirt and trousers step by step instructions. How to sew a skirt-pants (pattern construction)

To create a trouser skirt pattern, in addition to the measurements required for the main pattern, you will need one more additional measurement: Sun (27 cm). See about taking measurements.

And other skirt patterns - there are a lot of models.

Trace the main patterns of the front and of course the back panels.
Mark the extreme points of the lines of the middle, side cut and top cut and hips with the same letters as in the main drawing.

Back half. Middle cut. Pattern of a skirt-trousers.

From point T2 down the straight line of the side cut, set aside a segment equal to the height of the seat minus 1 cm. Place point I and draw through it
a horizontal line until it intersects with the straight lines of the middle of the rear and front panels.

We continue to make the skirt-trouser pattern. Label the intersection points with the letters R1 and R2.
Extend the resulting line to the left for a segment that is equal to 1/5 of the measurement from the half-circumference of the hips and with an increase in freedom plus 1 cm. Place point R3.

Thus, R1R3 = 0.2 x (PoB + PB) + 1 = 0.2 õ (53 + 2) + 1 = 12 cm.
From point T up, set aside a segment that is equal to 1/10 of the measurement from the half-circumference of the hips and minus 2 cm. Label the resulting point with the letter T3. Divide the segment R1T3 into 3 parts. Mark the bottom point of division R4. Find the bisector of angle R4R1R3 and plot along it
from point H1 a segment equal to 1/10 of the measurement from the half-circumference of the hips. Place point Z5.

Then connect points Z3, Z5 and Z4 with a smooth concave line.

From point H3, restore the perpendicular to the continuation of the bottom and mark the resulting point with the letter H5. To the left of this point, lay a horizontal segment equal to 1.5 cm. Connect the point
1.5 centimes. with point R3 using a ruler.

To the left of point H2 along the bottom line, set aside a segment 2 cm long. Place point H3 and connect it to point B2 using a ruler. Front half.

Middle cut. Pattern of skirt-pants.

Extend the line Y3Y2 to the right to a segment that is equal to 1/5 of the measurement from the half-circumference of the hips with an increase for looseness of fit and minus 1 cm. Place point Y6. Divide the segment R2T1 into 3 parts and mark the lower point of division with the letter R7. Along the bisector of the angle Y7Y2Y6 from point Y2, set aside a segment that is equal to 1/10 of the half-girth measurement from the hips minus 1 cm. Label the resulting point Y8. Connect points Z7, Z8 and Z6 with a smooth concave line. Shorten the midline by
1 cm from the T1 point.

Step cut. Pattern of skirt-pants.

From point H6, restore the perpendicular to the continuation of the bottom line.
Label the resulting point H6. To the right of point H6, set aside a horizontal segment about 1.5 cm long. Connect the point 1.5 centimes. with point Y6 using a ruler.

Side cut. Pattern of skirt-pants.

To the right of point H2 along the bottom line, set aside 2 cm and place point H4. WITH
Using a ruler, connect points H4 and B2.

If you choose a fabric with a width of 80–100 cm for sewing a trouser skirt, you will need three lengths of the product plus 6–8 cm. Fabrics with a width
140 cm requires two lengths and plus 3-4 centimeters.

The trouser skirt can be with a counter pleat in the middle of the front and back halves, as well as flared. When cutting a pattern for a trouser skirt with counter pleats, you need to cut the patterns of both the front and back halves along the middle lines and push them apart to the depth of the fold (16–24 cm).

Reduce the depth of the fold along the hemline by approximately 2-3 centimeters on each side. Draw fold lines through points Y4 and Y7 to the waist line. If the fabric is dense, the upper part of the fold must be cut out.

When cutting a flared trouser skirt pattern, you should extend
darts at the waist to the hip line.

Then you need to make cuts from the bottom edge and to the center of the darts. Close the darts at the waist. As a result of this, the trouser skirt pattern will move apart along the hem line. Lay out the patterns so that the grain thread runs parallel to the step cut. Allow seam allowances. Place “snares” (copy stitch) along the contour lines of the patterns and the top folds of the folds. Baste and stitch the darts.

Baste the side cuts. The fastener will be processed on the left side, so the seam should not reach the top cut by 16–20 cm. Baste the step cuts of both the left and right halves. And fasten the middle front and middle back sections with pins, and then sweep them away.

Place and baste the folds, baste the waistband. After this, do the fitting. Stitch the edges and stitch the folds from the waist to points Y4 and Y7. The skirt-trouser pattern is ready.

Lastly, process the clasp and the top and bottom edges. Iron the skirt and trousers.

You can choose the right trouser skirt model for any female figure. The convenience of the style and the ability to combine the product with other items of clothing, practicality and attractiveness make this item popular in various life situations. To sew a trouser skirt, you will need a desire to create a unique item and basic sewing skills.

How to cut a culotte skirt

It is possible to construct a pattern for a trouser skirt on the basis of a pattern for classic trousers, adding folds to the pattern or expanding it downwards.

Specialized sewing publications have ready-made patterns for any style. When using ready-made patterns, sewing takes less time, but they also have to be adjusted to the characteristics of the figure. When transferring parts to fabric and cutting, the step cut of the pattern is placed in the direction of the grain thread.

When calculating consumption, the width of the material is taken into account. Narrow fabric 0.8-1 m wide will need an amount equal to 3 lengths of the finished product, taking into account 8 cm for seams. Material 1.4 m wide requires 2 lengths of the finished product with an extra 4 cm for seams.

If folds are provided in the model, then both panels are cut in the middle. Then both parts are moved apart by 16 cm if 2 folds are planned or 24 cm when making three.

In the lower part of the product, the width of the fold is reduced by 3 cm at both ends, then the resulting points on the lower section of the product are connected to the points where the fold intersects with the hip line. If the finished product is planned to be sewn from thick fabric, then part of the fold up to the hip is cut out.

For trouser skirts, the upper darts are extended to the hips.

How to sew a skirt-pants with elastic

A feature of the pattern of the finished product with elastic will be the absence of darts at the waist level and the presence of a one-piece belt. Such models are universal when landing on any figure.

They begin work by sewing together the internal and side seams, processing and ironing the allowances. Then the model is sewn along the stepwise cut, and the allowances are processed. The cut out part of the belt is folded in the middle and swept away. It is attached to the product, leaving an unstitched section through which the elastic will be inserted.

A wide elastic band is threaded into the belt through the provided hole, and its edges are sewn together. Then the hole is stitched and the bottom of the product is processed.

How to sew a skirt and trousers without a pattern

A simple model of a trouser skirt can be built directly on the fabric.

Sequencing:

The piece of fabric must be folded in half and cut out two rectangles of the following dimensions: one side must correspond to the length of the finished product, increased by 20 cm for a cutout at the waist, the second side is 2 times larger than the first. Then the part is folded in half.
For the waist hole, a semicircle is cut out at the fold of the rectangle. Its length is calculated based on the waist circumference divided by 4, with an allowance of 5 to 10 cm. The left corner is cut out on one part, and the right corner on the other.
To obtain the bottom of the product, the corner opposite to that cut for the waist is cut in a semicircle.
Next, cut out a stepwise section with a depth of 25 to 30 cm and a width of 5 to 10 cm.
First, the inner cut is sutured. Waist darts are sewn on the back panel.
Then the step cut is ground down and a zipper is sewn on the front part.
Sew on the belt and process the bottom of the product.

How to sew a skirt-pants with your own hands - video

It will be useful for novice craftswomen to watch several videos about cutting and sewing products.

How to wear a culotte

With the help of a trouser skirt you can create any look: business, romantic, sexy. A summer combination is possible with T-shirts, shirts, tops and tank tops.

For the cold season, a model is sewn from warm fabrics, combined with light sweaters, fitted jackets, and turtlenecks. Choose short outerwear: you can use fur coats up to the hip, shortened coat models. When creating an image, it is worth remembering that the trouser skirt has a significant volume, which is balanced by a tight-fitting top.

You can complete the look with various accessories: scarves, massive bracelets, necklaces, and multi-strand beads. For products on the belt, choose wide belts with decorative buckles.

You can highlight a spectacular item with shoes, sandals or ankle boots with heels. It is better not to wear boots with high tops in combination with a trouser skirt. For everyday wear, choose flat pumps or ballet flats.

A bright long trouser skirt model, made of light flowing fabrics, which does not look like trousers, is very fashionable.

The special cut of the model is visible only when moving. This allows you to hide the flaws of almost any figure.

Skirt-pants- This is an incredibly comfortable and feminine type of clothing. She appeared in our lives not so long ago, but immediately gained great popularity and the love of most women. After all, this is a universal solution to many problems related to clothing.

The trouser skirt is a symbiosis of a straight two-seam skirt and ordinary women's trousers. Like trousers, it is also practical and comfortable; in addition, due to its loose, flowing shape, it will suit women with almost any figure, as it can ideally hide its flaws. The trouser skirt will go perfectly with a blouse of any cut, a sweater or a vest, and can also be part of a suit.

Today, elegant and bright models that are floor-length or just below the knee are in fashion. They are sewn mainly from light, flowing, beautifully flowing fabrics and are no different in appearance from skirts. Their secret is that the trouser cut becomes noticeable only when walking.

The drawing of the trouser skirt is based on. In addition to the typical measurements used to construct a skirt, an additional measurement will be required.

Pleated skirt

1. We build a drawing of a straight skirt or take a ready-made straight skirt pattern and copy the resulting details onto a blank sheet of paper.

2. Along the lines of the middle of the front and back panels of the skirt, draw a fold allowance 14-20 cm wide.

3. From the outer line of the fold allowance, a step segment of the skirt-trousers is drawn (Fig. 1).

From point 1 to 2, put down the value of the measurement BC (seat height) plus 0-2 cm (extension).

From points 2 to 3, set aside to the left the value of the step width of the front half of the trouser skirt, equal to 1/8 OB minus 2 cm. Set the length of segment 2-3 up from point 2 - point 4 is obtained.

Connect point 3 with an auxiliary line to 4 and draw a perpendicular from point 2 to this line. Divide the perpendicular in half, and through the resulting point draw a line for the middle cut of the front half of the trouser skirt.

From point 3, draw a step line down at a right angle to the bottom.

4. On the back half of the trouser skirt from points 5 to 6, set aside the value Bc plus 0-2 cm (the same as on the front half of the trouser skirt) (Fig. 2).

From point 6 to 7, set aside to the right the value of 1/8 OB plus 2-3 cm (the step width of the back half of the trouser skirt). The added value (i.e. step width) depends on the client’s OB and/or Lunch value.

The length of segment 6-7 is set aside upward from point 6 - point 8 is obtained.

Connect point 7 with an auxiliary line to 8 and draw a perpendicular from point 6 to this line. Divide the perpendicular in half, set 0.5 cm down from the resulting point; draw a line through the resulting point for the middle cut of the back half of the trouser skirt. Draw a step line.

On the sides in the bottom area, expand the details of the trouser skirt by 2-3 cm and align the side line on the hips.

Details of the finished pattern of a pleated skirt-trouser are shown in Fig. 3. On the parts, indicate the direction of the warp thread parallel to the middle of the front and back halves.

Trouser skirt sewing technology

1. Cut out the details of the trouser skirt.

2. Lay the snare along the control lines of the pattern.

3. Baste and stitch the darts on the front and back panels and wet heat treat them.

4. Sweep side and step cuts. Stitch them together, leaving the left side seam on the zipper area unstitched. (18-20 cm). Overcast the cuts and press the seams.

5. Baste and stitch the two halves of the trouser skirt along the middle seam of the front and back panels. Overcast the cuts and press the seam.

6. Lay down and sweep up oncoming warehouses.

2. Cut along the cut lines drawn from the dart stop down to the bottom line.

3. Connect the sides of the darts. To obtain the same expansion of the front and back panels of the trouser skirt along the bottom, close the dart at the waist on the back panel of the skirt with the same pattern as on the front (here: 2.5 cm). Transfer the remainder of the tuck solution at the waist (here: 1.5 cm) into a dart from the middle of the upper cut of the back panel of the skirt, the length of the dart is about 10 cm.

4. Draw the instep seams of the trouser skirt in the same way as the model above.

5. On the sides in the bottom area, expand the details of the trouser skirt by 2 cm and align the side line at the hips.

Nowadays, women are achieving success in all areas of human life. They keep up with the times and are on par with men, and sometimes even ahead of them in some areas. This was noticeably reflected in the fashion of the fair sex. So, for example, a skirt-pants appeared. Practical, comfortable for a rhythmic and busy life and at the same time maintaining graceful femininity.

A culotte skirt (professionals call them culottes) is a special wardrobe item that is the perfect hybrid of both trousers and a skirt. The narrow waist and spacious hem perfectly combine practicality and elegance. Very suitable for women, emphasizing their beauty and expressiveness.

What parameters are needed for a culotte pattern?

The main parameters that need to be taken into account when sewing culottes are seat height and step width. If you have a non-standard figure or want to add some zest to your suit, then you need to calculate additional parameters:

Waist;
transverse dimensions of the hips.

It is also necessary to prepare material for decorations and calculate the location of their attachment.

IMPORTANT! Correctly determine the step width. If necessary, adjust it while sewing the model. If the step width is chosen incorrectly, it will cause significant inconvenience when walking.

The principle of creating a pattern

Correct design of the pattern begins with taking the measurements that interest us, which were mentioned above, and building the basis for the future skirt. The base pattern is quite easily made on graph paper, which allows you to quickly and accurately create blanks.

ATTENTION! Skirts with sun, half sun and elastic differ in sewing technique.

Plan for constructing a pattern for further sewing of the product:

As a basis, take the basic cut for a straight classic skirt with waist and hip measurement marks in girth.
Measure the length of the product along the side seam line.
Complete the pattern in the front center.
Mark the height of the seat: from the waist you need to take a quarter of the circumference at the hips and draw a straight line.
Along the seat height line, we put a mark of a tenth of the circumference of the hips and from it we lower a straight line to the bottom.
We divide the angle in half with a bisector and measure 4 cm on it.
We do the same with the back half of the workpiece.
Along the side seam at the front and back we slightly expand the workpiece by about a couple of centimeters.
Cut off the excess and lower the waistline.
Don’t forget to cut a strip twice the width of the belt for the belt (this is necessary because it is made hemmed).

Variety of models

The trouser skirt also has its own variations. Among them are: classic, sun and half-sun, elastic, transformable, and wraparound. The basic elements of taking measurements, building bases and sewing all models remain similar, but there are still some nuances that differ in each of them.

When creating a pattern, take into account some differences between the models:

For a flared model, it is necessary to increase the length of the dart at the waist to the hip line on both sides.
The elasticated model is versatile. It looks like any figure, which is undoubtedly its advantage. To do this, you need to leave some space at the waist level and thread the elastic band of the required width.
Models for obese women are designed to hide these shortcomings from view and turn them into advantages. To do this, more material is taken and it is poured in a special way: either expanded downwards or increased in circumference on the legs.

Model pattern for obese women

For overweight ladies, the ideal model would be trouser skirts that are longer than usual, almost to the floor. This is ideal for smoothing out the waist and giving a beautiful overall look. The pattern of the model is practically no different from the plan that was discussed above. There are only small details that are taken into account in this case.

The first thing you need to do is increase your waist size. Longer pitch and extended sewing pattern.

Transformer model pattern

This is a special type of culotte, distinguished by its originality and comfort, and also providing you with a complete flight of imagination and thought. You can create a lot of amazing images with it, which is why it is called a transformer.

Peculiarities:

Initially, we will need the same classic base pattern.
Both halves (carefully lay out the front and back so that they go towards each other).
Lines are drawn on the sides to the middle of the parts.
Build two parts that will be needed for the smell, after which you need to swap them and add them to the side of both halves of the product.
A solid sheet is formed. In total, you need to cut out two of these.
Sew both received parts along the seat line.
In the final stage, we add an average of 0.5 - 0.6 meters to the belt and garters.

Pattern of a model with an elastic band

A culotte skirt with an elastic band, as a type of culotte, is perhaps the most comfortable and unique. Since the elastic can be easily replaced or stretched, this model will look perfect on absolutely any figure. Plus, it will be easy and pleasant to put on and wear. Suitable for walking and just as an element of your home wardrobe. All you need to do is attach an elastic waistband to a standard classic culotte skirt. This model will have no side seam and no darts from the waist to the hip.

For your convenience, we will give a few tips that will help you make the pattern correctly and save time and effort:

To feel more comfortable in a trouser skirt, you just need to make the cutout on the seat larger.
At almost every stage it is worth checking whether the step width that you measured at the beginning has not gone astray. It’s better to fix everything at the initial stages than to redo an already finished thing.
Keep fabric in reserve. It is better to adjust or hem than to notice a shortage.
Keep in mind that the fabric will be used for hemming, hems in the product and garters. To do this, you also need to take material with a reserve.

The next step after constructing the pattern is sewing the product. And for it to turn out well, you should pay close attention to the pattern.

Women in the modern world live and work, often at a frantic pace, on an equal basis with men. This inevitably influenced the appearance of the fair sex and women's fashion.

Therefore, the main item of clothing has become pants of all types and colors, loved by women for their convenience and comfort to wear. At the same time, representatives of the fair sex strive to remain feminine and attractive - then uniquely cut pants called culottes come to their rescue.

What is a culotte?

The surprisingly comfortable style of this clothing allows women not to rack their brains over what to wear – a skirt or trousers, since culottes (the professional name for this wardrobe item) combine the advantages of both.

They allow you to make your look feminine and stylish, while still remaining comfortable. Due to the loose cut, which fits tightly at the waist and widens down from the upper thigh, this style of trousers can be worn by women with absolutely any type of figure - imperfections will be reliably hidden from prying eyes.

Another advantage of such clothing is its versatility - you can wear such a skirt at any time of the year and in any weather - you just need to carefully choose the material: in winter it will be thick, warm wool, and in summer - light fabrics that flow in the wind.

This unusual design first appeared in the thirties of the nineteenth century in Holland. Then the very idea of a woman wearing things reminiscent of men’s seemed unthinkable. According to legend, one Dutch woman was very fond of bike rides, but doing them in a dress was extremely inconvenient. Then she found a way out - she created unusually wide trousers, which from the outside looked like a skirt.

Since those times, the appearance of this type of clothing has remained virtually unchanged - variations were created with only minor innovations.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a pattern

In the modern world, there are a huge number of specialized magazines in which you can find the necessary patterns. When using a ready-made pattern, the sewing process is greatly simplified, but you need to make adjustments depending on the characteristics of the figure.

To create a pattern for such original trousers, you will need to find a pattern for a regular straight skirt, and with its help you can easily create culottes of any style and length. These two variations of women's clothing really have a lot of similarities, and understanding them will help you easily master the creation of fashionable wide trousers.

We list only the measurements that are needed to draw a drawing of the future skirt. See photo below. This is a guide for those who want to create a straight skirt pattern themselves.

Let's move on to modeling fashionable culottes again. The straight skirt pattern needs some changes. You need to draw a step slice. The following measurements will be required: seat height (HS), hip circumference (HR). The photo shows how to take such measurements.

From point 1 downwards we put aside the measurement BC + (0-2) and put point 2.
From mark 2 up we put aside 1/8 OB - 2 and put point 4.
From mark 2 to the left you need to draw a segment equal to 1/8 OB - 2. Place point 3.
A straight line connects points 3,4. The bisector from the vertex of an angle divides it in half.
The bisector is divided into equal parts. We draw a smooth line through the middle of the bisector. The step cut is ready.

On the next pattern, from point 5 down, we lay down the segment BC + (0-2), we get mark 6. From point 6 we draw a segment equal to 1/8 OB + 2. We get point 7. The next stage is similar to the previous one, with one amendment. The bisector is divided into parts: ½ and ½ +0.5 cm. It’s better to look at the photo.

The skirt and trousers also need a belt. It is cut out into a rectangle: where the width is 4-6 cm, and the length is equal to the waist circumference. Culottes will fit better at the waist if the belt is lined with non-woven fabric inside.

Modeling on an oblique

Modeling on the bias involves placing the warp threads at an angle of 45 degrees. Thanks to this position, the material becomes very plastic and elastic, it can be stretched. The sun and half-sun cut options are made in exactly this way. The bias cut helps create a very feminine silhouette, due to the fact that all the curves of the body are gently emphasized, while maintaining freedom of movement.

To create products cut in this way, much more fabric is required. However, it’s worth it - clothes sewn on the bias visually slim and hide imperfections.

Fabric selection

Previously, dense, heavy fabrics were used to sew culottes, and the silhouette was created straight and wide, with a length to the ground. Nowadays, most designers choose light, flowing fabrics. Summer models are made from cotton materials, but despite being environmentally friendly and comfortable to wear, they have one significant drawback - they wrinkle very easily and lose their presentable appearance. Knitted materials with a small addition of synthetics do not have these disadvantages.

Leather models are also appearing. For lovers of country style and denim items, denim trouser skirts have appeared. Such a variety of fabrics allows you to choose something close in style to what you like, but at the same time make your daily look original and memorable. It’s surprising that any materials are truly suitable for such a wardrobe item: both trousers made of airy chiffon and culottes made of harsh raincoat fabric will fit stylishly and organically into the image. The choice of fabric depends on where you intend to wear this skirt - to the office during working hours, to an official event or to a summer picnic.

The choice of material affects the choice of which model is best to create from it:

Using dense, heavy material as a basis, you can sew culottes with numerous folds radiating from the hip line. This model will be suitable for business meetings or walks around the city.
Models for romantic dates and summer travel are created from translucent drapery fabrics. The structural basis for them is a sun or half-sun cut with a smooth expansion downwards.

When choosing fabric, you need to think in advance about what the future product will look like. For example, a dense fabric that is too heavy will not hold folds well, and to make them better visible, you should choose a plain material.

Popular culottes models and patterns

There is a huge variety of different models of pants of this cut, allowing each woman to choose the model that will look perfect on her. They vary in length, degree of flare, and number of pleats.

It is optimal to choose the type of trousers based on your body type:

For overweight women, ankle-length or floor-length pants will be a godsend. The flared fabric perfectly hides the imperfections of the legs and visually slims the figure; it also eliminates the fullness of the hips and the missing waist.
The maxi length is also suitable for girls with narrow hips - it is better for them to choose a wrap model. A significant nuance that you should remember when choosing a long flared skirt is that it is recommended to wear it with heels, otherwise there is a risk of visually making your figure heavier and reducing your height.

A midi-length trouser skirt is suitable for tall women with slender legs, since flared legs up to the middle of the shin can additionally hide height and disrupt proportions.
For girls with an “inverted triangle” figure, a wide skirt just below the knee will help visually correct the silhouette. She will competently balance the massive upper body, making the figure feminine and harmonious.

Short culottes will appeal to young girls. They are great for discos, parties with friends, going to the movies.
The model with pleats and elastic is perfect for walks in nature or along the seashore; in such trousers you will be comfortable and comfortable. The peculiarity of the pattern of pants with an elastic band is the absence of darts in the waist area and a one-piece belt.
In addition, designers create culottes with low or high waists, decorate them with slits and buttons, and often add hidden pockets.

How to cut?

We lay out the finished cut out pattern on the fabric. The fabric is folded in half with the right side facing inward. The drawing is laid out in the direction of the shared thread. We pin it with tailor's pins and draw the outline on the fabric. It is necessary to make a reservation about darts. Darts are drawn but not cut out.

The full outline of the culottes is traced again with seam allowances and cut out. Seam allowances from the bottom of the trouser leg are taken 3-4 cm. This allowance is made taking into account the shrinkage of the fabric.

Nuances when cutting:

When cutting, seam allowances are the same for any fabric - 1-1.5 cm.
The darts will need to be sewn up later. This is done to ensure a better fit of the product at the waist.

Sewing technology

We have the finished parts of the trouser skirt ready, you can start sewing. There should be 5 pieces: back panel 2 pieces, front panel - 2 pieces, belt - 1 piece. Accuracy and compliance with safety regulations will not be superfluous.

For beginner needlewomen, you can lay copying snares. They will help you sweep the product correctly and lay the basting evenly.
The first step is to sew up the darts on the two panels of the skirt.
We sew up the step section on the skirt and trousers.
You need to sew a zipper on the side or on the back panel.
Baste and sew up the side seams.
The culottes are almost ready.
All that remains is to sew the belt, make a loop and sew on a button. The belt is folded in half, the interlining should fit inside.
Do not forget to process the bottom of the trousers using any of the known methods.
Thus, sewing a trouser skirt is not at all difficult, even without a special pattern and extensive experience.

Master class on sewing wrapped culottes for beginners

Culottes come in different styles. Wrap culottes are a skirt and trousers that can be worn to any event: a gala reception, meeting with friends or studying at university. We will sew the culottes shown in the photo. But! Instead of a bodice there will be a belt.