DIY toy using dry felting technique. Secrets and techniques of dry felting technique

Felting or felting is a popular and very interesting technique, using which you can create a variety of figures, jewelry, interior items and accessories. This is an original mix of sculpture and needlework, allowing the author’s creative imagination to unfold to the fullest.

Nowadays you can find a lot of manuals and master classes devoted to the technique of dry felting, but when analyzing specific examples, the authors often miss technical recommendations of a general nature and subtleties of craftsmanship that novice craftsmen should pay attention to. In this article we will try to answer the main questions that arise for those who want to master the dry felting technique, and we will share some professional secrets.

Selection of materials for felting

As in any manual labor, the choice of materials for felting plays an important role. To get started, you won’t need many materials, but you should approach their choice consciously, and not buy the first items you see in the store.

Substrate

The presence of a backing is an important safety aspect when felting. It should protect both your fingers and the desktop surface from possible punctures. You can purchase a thick felt backing or a special plastic felting brush from a craft store. As an alternative, a regular bath sponge made of thick foam rubber is suitable.

Felt and foam pads, needles, unspun wool

It is in special faceted needles that the secret of transforming a shapeless skein of wool into a dense and graceful figure lies. Felting needles are made from hardened steel and have special notches that catch fine hairs of unspun wool, tightly weaving them together. To work, you will need several needles, which differ in both thickness and cross-section.

Memo: today there are 2 standards for numbering needles for felting. According to international markings, a larger needle number corresponds to a thinner needle; according to the domestic classification, the opposite is true.

Triangular needles are usually thicker and are suitable for the initial stages of felting, while star needles are for finishing and working on small elements.

For work you will need at least 3-4 needles (the numbers are indicated according to the international classification):

thick needle with a triangular cross-section No. 36 (for initial felting)
medium needle for intermediate stages of work No. 38
star finishing needle No. 40

Reminder: be careful when working with needles, needles are sharp and fragile, and can not only break easily at the tip, but also damage your fingers. At first, you can cover your thumb and index finger with adhesive tape to protect them from possible pricks.

Wool for felting

Wool for felting: carded (gray) and combing tape

For felting you will need natural unspun wool of different colors (usually sheep's wool is used). Today there is a very wide selection of different wool options in stores; over time, you will be able to choose options that are convenient for you.

The main types of wool suitable for making figurines:

Carding is combed, cotton-like wool with randomly mixed fibers. Very convenient to use.
Rowing tape is a wool tape with fibers aligned in one direction. Suitable for felting toys, although less convenient than carding.
Thin and semi-fine wool - most often used for finishing and creating accessories.
Coarse wool is coarse fluff, used only to create the base of the figurine.
Sliver is untreated, coarse wool. It is used only for felting the inside of the toy in order to save material.

Decor and accessories

It is the decor and accessories that give your work the mood and unique appearance.

You can use colored felt sheets, buttons, beads, ribbons, and various accessories as decoration. Don't forget about ready-made plastic or glass eyes for toys. The decor can be sewn, felted or glued to the figure, depending on the material.

Basics of dry felting techniques

If you have decided on the choice of materials, it’s time to start working directly. Where to begin?

Rowing tape and finished wool ball

Imagine, or better yet, draw in color on a piece of paper your future product. No matter what unusual shape it has, it can be mentally decomposed into simpler component parts, and that’s exactly how the figurine will lie, in parts.

Reminder: if you are going to make a figurine taller than 15 cm, it makes sense to make basic blanks for the main parts (torso, head) from sliver or coarse wool. This will significantly reduce material costs and will not affect the final appearance of the product.

How to prepare wool for felting?

From the general skein (especially if you are working with combing tape, which is most often found on store shelves), begin to separate individual feathers of wool for the future part. They should be prepared with a fair amount of reserve.

Reminder: during the work process, the initial volume of wool will decrease by about 3-4 times!

The selected strands are again separated in different directions until they are mixed into a completely homogeneous mass. Long fibers create unsightly furrows during the felting process, which is why it is so important to separate the wool into small fibers and mix them together.

The process of preparing wool for felting

If you have to make two or more identical parts, equal volume tufts of wool should be prepared in advance for all of them. If you start felting one paw and take up the other only when the first one is completely ready, you have very little chance of making identical parts.

How to lie?

Felting is a simple process that involves repeatedly sticking a needle into a ball of wool. The fibers are intertwined, and you use your hands to give them the desired shape.

From shapeless fibers we gradually begin to form simple shapes with a needle and hands, and gradually from detailed

Basic rules for dry felting:

should always be felted on a base
We always start work with a thicker needle, gradually changing it to thinner ones
the needle should enter the material perpendicular to the working plane, movements should be uniform and fast enough
While working, constantly rotate the part, processing all its sides at the same time, including the ends of thin parts
at the initial stages of work, try to tightly felt the core of the part, sticking the needle deep
While the wool is soft, give it the desired shape with your fingers, as when sculpting from plasticine
The part can be considered finished only when the wool has acquired noticeable density. There should be no voids inside, the figurine should not be fleecy and should not be deformed when pressed with a finger
if you plan to connect one piece to another, leave loose strands of wool at the joints

Reminder: if you need to change the dimensions of a part while its surface is still loose, add additional feathers of wool in the right places.

How to connect parts together?

Large pieces, such as the figurine's head and torso, are often found lying together as one piece. Smaller ones (paws, noses, ears, tails, etc.) are made separately. So that the parts can be reliably connected to each other, free, non-matted strands are left at the ends of the smaller pieces, which are then carefully rolled to the main part.

The mushroom cap has acquired a depression. There are free threads left on the legs for connecting parts

How to give the product a finished look?

Grinding

If you have connected all the details of the figurine and are satisfied with the result, it’s time to begin the final, but important stage of the work - polishing. The surface should be dense, uniform and not lint-free.

We separate several small feathers from the main skein of wool, tearing them in different directions, turning them into light fluff without long fibers. We apply the resulting “cloud” to the part and carefully press it with the thinnest needle. We place the next cloud slightly overlapping and thus work the entire surface of the figure until it becomes absolutely smooth. The work is labor-intensive and painstaking, but without it the product will not acquire a neat appearance!

Memo: the pattern on the surface of the part is made in the same way, from downy “clouds” of the desired color.

Fungus, surface leveled, parts connected

Tinting

How to give a figure greater expressiveness and emphasize volume? To do this, it is best to use the tinting technique, applying a kind of makeup to the form. To do this, you can use acrylic paints diluted with water or crushed dry pastels. The last method is simpler and better suited for beginners.

Pastel crayons (you can use colored pencils instead) are finely crushed using a stationery knife and applied to the surface of the toy with a dry, soft brush. Krasiel can be lightly shaded with your fingers, creating soft transitions.

Crushed pastel crayons

Reminder: to give the detail greater depth, use a dark tint (2-3 tones darker than the main surface), to add volume and emphasize the convexity - lighter ones.

Anyone can learn the basics of dry felting techniques if they wish. This is a painstaking but extremely exciting creative process, the results of which will surely delight your friends and family. You can learn more about the stages of work in our subsequent master classes, from simple to complex.

Felting wool is a fairly popular form of creativity today. Can you feel anything? beads, bags, brooches, phone cases and much more, which is enough for your imagination. But out of all the variety of wool products, toys are the cutest and some of them even look like real ones. However, the toys don’t turn out like this the first time. As in any business, experience is needed here to get the hang of it.

At first glance, it may seem that felting is a very complex process and a beginner cannot cope with it. However, do not be afraid to start; the main thing here is patience and accuracy. But first, a little theory to better understand how the felting process occurs, and then the master class itself on making felted toys with your own hands.

How does wool felting work?

Natural wool, mainly sheep's, is used for felting. Now purchasing it is not a problem; wool can be found in any craft store. It is sold in various colors, qualities and thicknesses. It is also necessary to mention that there are two types of wool felting techniques:

Dry felting, the process of which consists of matting wool with special needles, while the wool is not wetted. This type of felting is mainly used for making three-dimensional products (beads, toys, etc.);

Wet felting is used to make flat products (paintings, scarves, stoles, etc.). In this case, the wool is moistened with a water-soap solution.

More details about wet felting can be found among the many videos on the Internet. This article discusses dry felting, because this is the method used to create toys.

Everything you need to know about felting needles

In the process of dry felting, special needles play an important role, because it is with their help that the wool fibers become tangled and matted. Needles come in different diameters and have different sections, each of which is used at different stages of felting. The notches on the needle are located in opposite directions, which allows you to felt the wool to a high density.

Before starting work, you need to pay attention to some points of work:
The needle must be inserted perpendicular to the surface of the wool;
It is important to make hand movements when inserting a needle clearly and uniformly;
The needle should be above the product while working, and not vice versa;
At the initial stage, it is important not to felt the workpiece to its final density, otherwise it will be impossible to further work with the product.

Felting wool toys for beginners: step-by-step master class

On the Internet you can find many photos of ready-made felted toys that will definitely make you want to try making such a toy with your own hands for yourself or as a gift. Next we will talk about the most interesting thing - step-by-step felting of MK toys from wool. The first step is to prepare everything you need, namely:

Wool of the desired colors;
Beads for eyes or ready-made eyes for toys;
Glue for gluing eyes;
Needles for felting of various diameters and sections;
Foam rubber or a special brush to protect the table from scratches.

Depending on what kind of animal you need to create, you may need additional accessories or wire for the toy’s frame, etc.

It is important to remember that during the felting process the wool significantly decreases in size, so you need to take it twice the intended size of the toy part. Work is always carried out from larger parts to smaller ones. Therefore, it is better to start with the body of the future toy. First you need to fluff the wool and twist it into the approximate shape of the part. Now the wool lies on a brush or foam rubber and is evenly pierced with a needle.

It is very important that at this stage the needle is stuck as deeply as possible, in which case the wool will fall off inside the workpiece. When the parts of the toy are felled, the joints of the parts remain fluffed up, not tumbled, so that it would be easier to connect the parts in the future.
After the body of the toy is ready, the head of the toy falls off in the same way. To connect the head and body, the place where the head is connected is fluffed, the head is inserted into this place and the entire fluffed part falls into the head of the toy to obtain a smooth transition from the head to the body.
If it is necessary to add another color, then the wool of the desired shade is taken, fluffed, applied to the main workpiece and rolled in the same way with a needle until a smooth surface is obtained.

In the same way, the remaining parts of the future toy are created and attached to the body. To form a place under the eyes or other recesses in the product, you need to stick the needle into the desired place several times. The more such sticking occurs, the deeper the recess will be.

Next, when all the parts of the toy are completely assembled, the surface of the product is fluffed using the so-called reverse needle. The final step in creating a toy is decorating it. Here everything depends on the imagination of the needlewoman. These could be additional eyelashes, bows, beads, etc.

These instructions for felting toys from wool are intended to create only the most basic products. But once you start creating toys with your own hands, experience will definitely come, excitement and toys will be born more and more complex and interesting!

Video on the topic of the article

Felting is working with natural unspun wool. Felting allows you to create exclusive crafts - souvenirs, jewelry, toys... There is a dry and wet felting method. The dry method is used to create voluminous things, and the wet method is used for flat ones.

For dry felting, unspun wool and special needles are used. The work process is carried out in this way: a piece of wool is torn off, given the desired shape, then the wool fibers are tangled by piercing a large number of needles. Beginners need foam rubber for convenience.

Wet felting technique

For wet felting, unspun wool and a soap solution are used. The work process is carried out in this way: pieces of wool are torn off, the desired shape is laid out on a flat surface and a warm soapy solution is soaked through the mesh. Wool fibers are matted (glued) together to form a fabric product.

Modern needlewomen have learned to combine dry and wet felting. Thanks to this method, you can create original crafts, simplify your work and save time.

You will need: unspun wool of beige or gray (primary color), orange or blue (for gloves) and brown or white (for felt boots), black beads, needles for felting, a simple pencil, a needle and thick thread, scissors, if desired - thin needles for knitting and orange or blue yarn for a scarf.

Master Class

The sheep using the dry felting technique is ready! I recommend watching this video!

You will need: light-colored wool yarn, unspun wool, liquid soap, bead thread, felting needle (38 stars), warm water, terry towel, gypsy needle.

Master Class

Beads using the mixed felting technique are ready! I recommend watching this video!

You will need: foam rubber, scissors, unspun wool in beige, red, brown, white and green, felting needles, a brush with hard bristles.

Master Class

The house using the dry felting technique is ready! I recommend watching this video!

Flower using wet felting technique

You will need: unspun wool for felting, combed Merino ribbon in purple, white, green, light green and yellow, film with pimples, hot water, soap, medium felting needle, bamboo mat, sponge, mosquito net or organza, scissors, sheet of paper, compass.

Master Class

Draw a circle with a diameter of 18 cm on the sheet.
Cover the work surface on top of the sheet with the circle with oilcloth with pimples.
Separate the pieces of purple wool with smooth movements and lay them out in a circle in 5 layers, overlapping each other.
Lay out strands of white wool and turn the workpiece over.
Lay out strands of green wool, sprinkle with hot (not boiling water) water and cover with a net so that the wool is well saturated with water.
Twist yellow wool flagella for the stamens.
Form a leaf from green and light green wool.
Form a stem from green and light green wool, sprinkle with hot (not boiling water) water, leaving a dry 4 cm tip.
Lather your hands and roll the stem on a bamboo mat without touching the dry tip.
Roll the stamens into flagella with soapy hands on a bamboo mat.
Place the leaf blank under the mesh next to the flower and sprinkle with hot water.
Felt the flower and leaf (smooth the wool in a random direction) with soapy wet hands on both sides.
Cut a small hole in the center of the flower and insert the stamens.
Apply the dry part of the stem to the center of the flower and apply soapy water.
Roll the leaf onto the stem and pierce with a needle the junction of the stem with the leaf and the stem with the flower and stamens.
Continue felting the flower with wet, soapy hands on the bamboo mat in different directions, creating the desired shape.
Rinse the flower in cold water when the flower size decreases.
Make 6 cuts along the edges of the flower, forming the petals.
Felt the cut areas by wetting the workpiece and rubbing it with soap.
Rinse in warm water, squeeze, straighten and dry.

Wet felting from wool is used to create flat fabrics, which is why it is sometimes also called flat felting. Flat felting with wool for beginners may seem narrow-minded, but it's not!

Using this technology, you can make not only plain canvases and colored panels, but also handbags, covers for homemade notebooks, scarves, mittens and even flowers! Interesting? Then let's try it.

What do you need for wet felting?

Unlike dry felting, wet felting requires quite a lot of materials. But you can probably find them all at home. So, you will need:

bedding made of waterproof material (usually bubble wrap is used);
soap;
warm water;
net (for example, mosquito net);
towel;
spray bottle or sponge;
bamboo napkin or washboard;
decorations for your future masterpiece (optional).

Where to begin?

Wet felting lessons from wool for beginners usually involve creating simple things. For example, you can make a small panel - see the instructions for creating it below.

Lay out the bubble wrap with the bubbles facing up. Now take the wool for felting. Holding it with one hand, pull out small bunches from the tape. How small? Imagine that you are pulling out a fluffy bunch from a faded thistle flower - this is approximately the volume the bunches should be.

Lay the bundles parallel to each other, overlapping the thin edges. When you have covered the intended area of your workpiece, begin the second layer. Lay the second layer perpendicular to the first. Then repeat again, and again. The result should be 4 layers, and each subsequent one is perpendicular to the previous one.

Now it's time to check the quality. Gently pressing the wool, look for any gaps. Clearances are “blanks” for future holes in the canvas. If there are gaps, they need to be covered with tufts of wool.

How to wet felt wool?

Wet felting involves moisture. For this you need a soap solution. The technique of wet felting wool for beginners allows preparing a soap solution from ordinary soap, although professionals often use expensive ready-made felting solutions. So, take two glasses of warm water and dissolve two tablespoons of grated baby soap or three tablespoons of liquid soap in the water. Pour the solution into a spray bottle, but if you don’t have it, it doesn’t matter. A sponge will also work for moisturizing.

Cover the workpiece with a net. It should cover it entirely and be even larger than it. Starting from the middle, moisten the surface with soapy water. To ensure that the solution penetrates deeply, press the product with your hands. How to understand that the workpiece is moistened enough? It is quite wet, but when pressed, no water comes through under your fingers. If water appears, blot the surface of the future panel with a towel. Balance is very important here: wool that is too dry will not mat, but wool that is too wet will unravel.

Happened? Now let's finish the product. Remove the mesh. Decorate the surface of the panel with beautiful woolen threads (if so intended), and trim the fluffy edges, tucking them into the total mass of the canvas.

Now let's start felting.

Wet felting with wool may seem uncomfortable for beginners. To prevent your first time from turning into a tragedy, use gloves. Cover your future masterpiece with the mesh and smooth it with light circular movements. You don't need to press too hard. After some time, check whether the workpiece is falling against the mesh. In this case, the pressure must be reduced. When the top layer falls off, the mesh can be removed.

When will it be ready? Easy to check. Pinch the surface of the workpiece. If hairs of fur come off, it's not done yet. When is it ready? When the entire canvas follows your fingers.

When the front part is felted, proceed to the back side. Turn the workpiece over and continue felting on the other side.

When the other side is ready, take the workpiece in your hands and rub it with your hands. The first stage of felting is completed.

Now take a bamboo napkin. Place it so that it is convenient to roll it up. Place the canvas on a napkin and roll it into a roll. Place a towel on the table so that the napkin does not slip, and roll the roll over the towel. Then unroll the roll, flip the piece over at a 90-degree angle, and repeat.

If you don't have a bamboo napkin, you can roll the fabric on a washboard. To do this, spread the product on a board and rub it as if washing. When it wrinkles, smooth it out, turn it at a right angle and rub again.

And now that the panel has fallen off, it needs to be rinsed. Place it in the sink or bathtub and run hot water over it. Rinse until the water runs clear. Then rinse with cold water and dry by rolling it in a towel. Then lay it out on a horizontal surface to dry completely.

Instructions

Draw a toy on paper. Create its image in the smallest details, determine the dimensions of all the components of the craft, and how to attach them. To avoid being distracted by measuring the part with a ruler while working, prepare in advance. On thick cardboard, draw the outline of the part of the required size, cut a hole along this outline. During felting, you can place the workpiece in the hole and adjust it to the desired size.

Prepare your work area and tools. Since the wool is pierced through during work, the table must be protected from scratches and the needles from breakage. It is enough to acquire a brush on which to process the parts. If you don’t want to spend money on a special brush, replace it with dense and fairly thick foam rubber. Buy some felting needles. They vary in size. The larger the toy you are making, the larger the needle should be. To work out small details, the thinnest needles are used.

Wool is significantly reduced in size after the felting procedure. Therefore, take a piece approximately 2 times larger than the size of the future part toys. Divide the wool into individual fibers, tear them several times to make the mass fluffier. Such material will fall better and more evenly. Roll the fluffy mass into the approximate shape of the part. Place it on a brush or foam rubber and begin to remove it, piercing it over the entire surface with a needle. The needle should enter and exit the wool at the same angle. To make the product even, try to dot the piece of wool as evenly as possible with needle pricks.

For making large toys You can use padding polyester. It needs to be torn into fibers, rolled up, wrapped with wool of the desired color on top and then rolled away. This way you will save on material. The longer you process the wool with a needle, the denser, smoother and smaller the piece will become.

To add a splash of color or change the shape of the base, place an additional layer of wool on it and work with a small diameter needle. This way you can “draw” an expressive face on the toy.

Do not process the junction of the part with the base; it should remain soft. During the assembly of the product, you will be able to felt the part so that this area completely “merges” with the shape of the base. If you are unable to line up the joint, try masking it. Place thin layers of wool on this area and press down with a thin needle. Build up layers until the surface is fairly smooth.