DIY knitted T-shirt. Women's T-shirt pattern

Good afternoon, my dear self-taught seamstresses. I continue to publish articles on the sewing cycle. As you remember, 2-3 months ago I talked about a simple and clear way to create your individual pattern-basis. The one and only one basic pattern, according to which all other dresses, T-shirts, blouses, jackets and even coats are created and sewn))).

And today I feel a surge of strength sufficient to once again return to modeling based on our basic pattern. Of course, you are all waiting for me to tell you about the dress now. But I will disappoint you.

We will not start with dresses, we will start with tops and T-shirts and through them we will begin to sneak up on dresses

Because if you created your very first basic pattern for your very first time, then the first product you sew may not turn out as beautiful as you expected - and this will completely kill your faith in your abilities (which I by no means I want to admit). I know a bunch of people who drew a pattern, cut the fabric, sewed the cut pieces together, put them on themselves, looked in the mirror and were DISAPPOINTED.

This usually happens for the following reasons.

    1. First reason. Your pattern was made with an error, and you realized this after you cut and connected the details of the dress. In the wrong pattern may be to blame an incorrectly taken measurement, inattentive adherence to instructions for drawing a pattern, or the author himself writing a training article. Even I, the great and terrible Klishevskaya, can make mistakes (I’m also a person, not a robot), sometimes I find errors in my articles and rewrite them from BEFORE publication on the site, and sometimes AFTER you, dear readers, notice it (yes, yes there was such a case).
  • The second reason. You chose the wrong style of dress and it (even though it was made correctly) doesn’t suit you, simply because you don’t look like that sensual blonde whose photo in a beautiful pink dress inspired you to take on sewing feats. It’s like in a store - the dresses hanging in your size range do not always fit your body type (out of 20 dresses in your size, one or two will look good on you. That’s why I always advise: before sewing anything, find and try on yourself a model with a similar cut; find out whether this style suits you, or whether it’s better not to even start sewing it.

Based on these considerations, let's start carefully, be patient for a little while without a dress. Let's start by sewing a couple of cool tops. You'll see this will make you happy, because...

Firstly, the top requires very little material(if you make a mistake, you risk “ruining” a small piece of fabric). A top is an ideal way to test the suitability of your base pattern. On the top, you will have no fear in your hands and eyes, you will work on the armholes, the neckline - you will practice, get your hand in - and you will approach sewing a dress from the position of “an experienced and experienced fashion designer”))).

Secondly, the topic has one undeniable advantage - it is small. And that's why it sews very quickly. You will be pleased with such an instant and easy end result of your sewing experiments.

Thirdly, the top is easier to sew than a dress; in fact, the top itself is similar to the top part of a dress of the same style as itself. In theory, by mentally lengthening any top, we will see a dress. That's why we start working with the firebox.

Look for yourself - if we learn to do TOPIC with a round yoke, then after this it will be easy and simple for us to sew DRESS with a round yoke.

After we practice sewing TOPA with flounces, we will fearlessly go purchase fabric for a similar “ruffled” DRESS.

And after sewing TOPA with U-shape neck, where the halves of the bodice overlap each other, we will calmly begin to cut similar cut dress– even our bodice pattern from the top will fit it, all that remains for us is to lengthen the lower “hem” part of the top.

In general, I hope you understand what I mean. We will start working with the tops, to train your hand and eye for sewing a more ambitious project called “DRESS».

We will start with simple models, and gradually move forward as they become more complex.

Today we will sew top based on your pattern. I told you how to make your own basic pattern in a special master class - and I tried to “invent” just such a way to create a pattern that is understandable even to an “absolute dummie” and a hopeless lazy person (like me) - this fun and absolutely unboring way creating your basic pattern should be to your liking.

And since many of us already have the base pattern ready, let’s start using it for its intended purpose and start sewing tops. Answer to the question “Why not start with dresses?”– read in the previous article in the series “Sew tops - quickly and easily.”

So, our first top will be sewn in an absolutely classic style. That is, it will be a simple, straight-cut top without any bells and whistles.

Here are the tops with a straight silhouette:

But you won't get bored sewing such simple tops. Because…

This lesson has three IMPORTANT tasks:

Task one– remember that basic patterns come in several types, depending on what silhouette of the product we need (fitted, semi-fitted, straight)

Task two– CHECK IF OUR BASIC PATTERN REALLY SUITS US. Well, we need to make sure that we drew everything correctly and didn’t make a mistake anywhere, and that the thing made according to the pattern fits us well and doesn’t sag or pull anywhere.

Task three– sew a top with a straight silhouette. And using his example, practice transferring darts from the shoulder (from where it is drawn on the pattern) to the side seam area (to where it is always located on the clothing, i.e. just below the armpit.

Let's start work

The first thing we need is your basic pattern. You have it. But WHICH she?

Now I will remind you of one thing. Remember that at the very beginning, when we first started drawing our base pattern, we needed to decide WHAT DEGREE OF FITTING WE WANT TO MAKE THIS BASE - and depending on this, we drew one or another width of the base pattern. This is what it looked like.

And if we needed an adjacent silhouette, we added 0 cm, if it was semi-adjacent, 2-3 cm, if it was straight, 4-5 cm, and if it was a very spacious dress, 6-7 cm.

What to do,

if your BASIC PATTERN is drawn with an ADJACENT silhouette in mind.

And you want to sew a top with a STRAIGHT silhouette.

Let's say that when you were drawing your pattern, you decided at the very beginning that it would be a pattern for an adjacent silhouette (for sewing dresses that fit the figure). And now you need to sew a straight, non-fitting top over it. What should I do?

Answer 1– Spend 20 minutes and re-draw the same basic pattern, but with an allowance for a straight or semi-fitted silhouette.

Answer 2– Or work with this pattern, but use knitted or stretch fabric for sewing (so that it stretches). And then it will be possible to cheat and turn the adjacent base pattern into a more spacious and wider one in a simple “clumsy” way - like in the picture below.

WE MODEL FROM THE BASIC PATTERN - THE PATTERN OF OUR TOP

What we do is we take our pattern, and in order not to spoil the basic pattern itself, we will perform all manipulations with its twin copy. To do this, trace the pattern on a sheet of paper - and here on this copy We will carry out all the manipulations - we will turn the base pattern into a pattern for a top with a straight silhouette. Namely:

    • Let's move the dart from the shoulder to the side seam (the dart in the classic version is always hidden under the armpit.
  • Let's draw the silhouettes of the neckline (that is, we will indicate the desired depth of the neckline) and the silhouettes of the armholes we need.
  • Let's give the drawing a straight (non-fitted) silhouette - we'll cut the top with a straight silhouette.

TRANSFER OF DOTTER.

Who has forgotten what a dart is and why it needs to be moved. Let me remind you that we need a dart so that when sewing a product, it will have a natural bulge-container that matches the size of our chest. Remember when I told and showed how a flat figure becomes convex thanks to an undercut? Here are these photos illustrating this process of creating a bulge in the chest thanks to the shoulder dart.

But since the dart on the shoulder is striking, all the fashion designers came to a unanimous decision: after constructing the pattern, transfer this dart to the side seam (under the armpit), where the dart will not be covered by the hand and therefore will not be noticeable as if it were remained on the shoulder.

And here are photos explaining how to transfer a dart from the shoulder to the side seam line

So we took a copy of our pattern and made the necessary manipulations on it (as in the photo above), that is, we moved the dart to the side seam. That old closed dart can be secured with tape so that it does not open.

WHAT CHANGED ON THE PATTERN AFTER THE DART MOVED.

Look at the picture below - there I depicted a pattern with the old dart and a pattern after transferring the dart - they are side by side, and they can be compared.

As you can see, our shoulder line is no longer broken, but straight, and its length coincides with the measurement of our shoulder (you can compare). The armhole line has also changed for the better, it is now not so curved, not so rounded - it has become straighter, more similar to what we see on our clothes. That is, the pattern after transferring the dart became more convenient for modeling - and this is very good. Because it is the modeling of simple tops with a semi-fitting silhouette that we will now deal with. Right in this same article.

DRAW THE CONTOURS OF THE NECK, ARMORY AND SIDE LINES OF THE TOPIC

And now on this pattern we must outline the contours of our topic. That is, we must decide what kind of neckline we want, how wide we want the straps on the shoulders, and how deep the armholes are.

YOU can draw anything you want within this pattern. The main thing is that our neckline covers our chest, that is, it is a couple of cm higher than the chest line. There are no restrictions on the width of the straps, nor on the size of the armhole; it can be as deep as you like (the main thing is that you like it yourself).

Now we just have to give our top pattern a straight silhouette on the sides - that is, we make sure that it is not fitted.

It’s very simple - where we have a side bend at the waist on the pattern - you need to even it out (so that it doesn’t exist) just draw a straight (or very slightly curved) line from the armpit to the hip. And that’s it – here’s a straight silhouette.

What you draw is what you get out of it. For example, I’ll draw this shape for the neckline and armhole and I’ll get a top like this.

Now the pattern is ready. Don't forget that there are no seam allowances on this pattern. We will draw them directly on the fabric when we trace the pattern with chalk or pencil (or if you want, you can immediately draw them on the pattern).

SEW TOP

Now you can sew the top itself:

1.) First, trace the pattern onto the fabric. Place the pattern on the fabric, trace it with a pencil or chalk. On the front part on both sides transferring the pattern of the lateral underarm dart(we trace right along the edge of the darts, naturally without seam allowances - it will simply be covered with machine stitching).

2.) Cut out these drawn parts from the fabric.

3.) On the front part, immediately sew up the dart on both sides. I hope this is clear how - we put the drawn edges of the dart next to each other, baste it with threads and then put it under the machine and sew it with a seam. For those who don’t understand, let them take any of their dresses or blouses out of the closet and iron how the dart is closed. So, we closed the dart with a machine stitch - we take the product out from under the machine - and the threads hanging from the edges of the seam can simply be tied with a knot (or if the fabric is transparent, it is better to thread them into a hand needle and disguise them with stitches in the seam and make a knot in the middle of the seam itself).

4.) Now we connect the back part with the front part - side and shoulder seams.

5.) We process the neckline, armhole cutouts and the bottom of the product.

I explained in detail how to process it in special articles - on working with knitwear, or on working with delicate silk and airy fabrics. Everything is explained there: what lines to sew, and how to overcast, and how to work with knitwear without an overlocker.

In this part we will make a similar top (also straight silhouette), but from transparent guipure or lace fabric. Like this:

Very beautiful tender model with a semi-adjacent silhouette - black guipure top. As you can see, he doesn't have any underarm bust darts. In our black top they are not needed since stretch guipure is used in sewing. But even if you bought guipure without elastic threads, you don’t have to make a dart in a straight-cut silhouette.

I'll tell you even more:

    1. Many straight cut products even from non-stretch (or low-stretch) fabric don't have those chest darts– why is it needed if the thing is already spacious enough, and there is enough chest space in it. You can make this dart - but it will not affect your straight-cut product in any way.
  • Also Bust darts are often not needed for fitted or semi-fitted and straight tops and dresses made of stretch fabric - after all, why have a dart if the fabric itself stretches on the chest.

That is why, to model such dartless products, it will be much more convenient for us to use the SAME “Dartless” BASIC PATTERN.

You ask where to get it?

And I will answer you:

Tuckless the basic pattern is very easy to get if remove the chest dart from the regular basic pattern. We will now do this with you using a clear example.

How to make a basic pattern without a bust dart.

This is what our front pattern looks like with a bust dart (see picture below). But today we sew, firstly from stretch, and secondly, a semi-adjacent silhouette - for us chest dart, broken shoulder line, too curved armhole line - they just get in the way– distract us from modeling. Now we will remove all these broken lines in a very simple way. The whole process is in the pictures below:

Well, now that we have the basic basis of the pattern without this extra bust dart, it will be very easy for us to model any shape of shoulder straps and neckline and armhole for our tops.

It is this kind of dartless pattern that we will often use when modeling stretch products and more.

Let's start by sewing a black guipure top:

We sew a black transparent top (with lining).

We will need:

guipure fabric that stretches

and for the lining we also need an opaque stretch fabric in a light beige shade, as close as possible to the shade of your skin.

WE MAKE A PATTERN OF THE UPPER TOP FROM GUIPURE.

We look carefully at the top and analyze its lines.

Neck line. If on the base pattern the neck line always runs at the very base of the neck, then on this top we see that the lower edge of the neck is 4-5 cm below the base of the neck (yellow dot).

Armhole line. If on the base pattern the top point of the armhole coincides with the edge of the shoulder (shoulder joint), then on the top from our photo we see that the shoulder joint is open, which means the edge of the strap begins 3-4 cm further than the edges of the shoulder (green dot on the pattern). The width of the strap is arbitrary (4-5 cm in the photo).

The waistline has a slight, calm curve - not as curved and fitted as on the basic pattern (we are making a SEMI-fitted top). And then, this bend is not necessary if you have a small difference in centimeters between the waist volume and the chest or hips volume - that is, simply the tummy - you can simply draw a straight side line, without any fit. Focus on your figure.

And so we analyzed the photo - and all these observations were reflected in our pattern - those. We drew the lines exactly where they should be for this top model.


Back pattern done with the same width of the neckline and the same length of the shoulder seam (so that the edge of the front strap coincides with the edge of the back strap when sewing them together).

You see how easy it is to model from a photograph.

WE MAKE A PATTERN OF A BEIGE LINING FROM STRETCH.

Now we need a beige hem pattern. This lining will be without shoulder straps - that is, like a bustier - it will be held on by an elastic band. The purpose of this lining is to protect delicate areas of the body from excessive exposure under the transparent fabric of the top. This lining can be sewn into the top itself, or worn separately as an independent item.

The top line of the lining starts from the armpits (the lowest point of the armholes on the pattern) and rises slightly arched above the chest line - like in my picture. The bottom line can be at any level - either at the waist, or slightly higher.

We've drawn the lines, and now let's remember that this top lining should be clinging to the body - and for this, its pattern needs to be slightly narrowed in width - when we put it on, the stretch will stretch and expand itself, hugging our body. You can reduce the pattern by eye - or you can calculate the stretch coefficient of your stretch fabric and reduce the pattern scientifically.

What is the ductility coefficient of stretch fabric, I explained in detail, using examples, in a special article. And here I’ll just remind you.

What if 10 cm of relaxed fabric - when stretched, gives 14 cm (that is, stretched fabric gives an additional 4 cm) - then the stretch coefficient of your fabric is 40% - which means our stretch product (i.e. top) will stretch in width by 40% and that means we need to make the pattern smaller in width by this 40% (or not reduce the pattern by all 40%, but only by 30-20%, well... so that the fabric does not compress the body too much).

For example, we bought stretch fabric that stretches 30%, but we want it not to dig into us too much, and therefore we reduce the pattern by 20% (that is, by 1/5 of its size). We measure the width of the pattern - divide it by 5 - and the width of the pattern should decrease by the resulting figure.

To be honest, I don’t strictly calculate – I do it by eye. I’ll look at the stretch: if it stretches easily, I’ll cut off more from the pattern; if it doesn’t stretch much, I’ll cut off less. And everything always works out as it should.

Here's what your lining pattern will ultimately look like:

CUT DETAILS ON THE FABRIC

Now we cut out our pattern and place it on the fabric. And here... please note that many guipure and lace fabrics are sold with a ready-made natural beautiful wavy edge made at the factory. And it would be a sin not to take advantage of this - firstly, such an edge looks beautiful (see the photo of the top below, it has just such an edge), and secondly, you will have less work, because There is no need to hem and process the bottom of the product on a machine.

So that means we put the pattern on the fabric and... we understand that you can’t draw on guipure with chalk, right? Therefore, we proceed as follows.

Or we take a bunch of pins and carefully pin the pattern onto the guipure. Or we fix the pattern on the fabric with heavy objects (for example, thick books) and arrange them here and there along the pattern so that it is pressed to the fabric and does not move. And we move one book closer to the edge that we begin to cut - the book presses the edge of the paper pattern to the fabric and we can easily cut the fabric with scissors along this pressed edge of the pattern - BUT DON’T FORGET IN THE RIGHT PLACES (in the area of ​​the shoulder and side seams) TO MAKE AN EXTRA FOR THE SEAMS 0.5 -1 cm.

I also cut out the stretch lining piece, pressing the pattern down with thick books - AND THERE IS NO NEED TO BE ADDED ON THE SEAMS - this is not very important for the stretch - it will stretch.

SEW TOP

So we have 4 parts- front + back for the top guipure top, and front + back for the bottom beige lining.

Sew the front and back of the top at the shoulder and side seams.

We sew the back and front of the beige lining at the side seams and process its lower edge. And we sew an elastic band into the top edge (I talked about a whole bunch of ways to sew elastic in the article How to sew elastic into clothes)

Now processing the neck and armholes of the top guipure top. First, we lay one or two fixing lines along the neckline and armholes, retreating 1-1.5 cm. Now we manually sew a black ribbon or narrow ribbon along this line. We baste it by hand, place it under the machine foot and attach it. This treatment of the neckline and armholes looks very beautiful.

Top and bottom tops can be worn separately to each other. Or, if desired, you can sew the bottom lining top to the guipure top - the place of stitching is the upper part of the side seams - from the armpit and 5-7 cm below, stitch both tops through or sew on by hand with blind stitches.

We continue to model tops - we have already sewed a classic top with a straight silhouette, and also sewed a top from openwork guipure fabric with a stretch lining. Now we will continue to sew from stretch and make simple but cute tops with knotted ties. These are the tops:

They are sewn from stretch fabric, so our ties stretch easily and are tied into soft, strong knots.

So let's get started... let's start with the blue top.

WE MODEL THE PATTERN OF A TOP WITH TIES AT THE BOTTOM

This top (like all other tops in the world) is created on the basis of your BASIC WITHOUT DART PATTERN - and we will get the top pattern by slightly “finishing” the base of this basic pattern. This is what it will look like:

We take the pattern and make a copy of it. And on this copy we carry out the following manipulations - we change the neck line and the armhole line.

To draw all the lines correctly, we must analyze the photo of the top.

Judging by the photo, the line of our neckline in a blue top it goes somewhere 2-3 cm below the base of the neck - which means that on the base pattern we lower our neck line to the same distance (yellow dot). And on the sides, the neckline does not reach the base of the neck by 1 cm. Therefore, on the base pattern, along the shoulder line, we retreat 1 cm to the side from the edge of the neckline (pink dots). If your face shape is more suitable for a neckline of a different shape, you can draw a neckline of a different depth and width.

Now armholes– judging by the photo, the armhole line of the blue top is almost classic – that is, a little higher along the shoulder line than on the base pattern. If you wish, you can also slightly lower the lower edge of the armhole (axillary point) - well, so that it is away from the armpit. But not so low that your bra shows - it’s not aesthetically pleasing after all.

Now let's smooth it out Tightness of the lateral lines (so that the top does not fit around the waist, but is slightly loose). Even if you look more closely at the photo, it becomes clear that the front detail on the top is specially expanded downwards, so that when the knot is tied, you get a sort of assembly of folds going from all sides to the place of the knot. This means that in our pattern, we expand the side lines to the sides.

Now we determine where we will have nodule(in the center or slightly to the side) - we mark this place with a dot - and begin to draw our tabs downwards (the same long tabs that we will tie in a knot). How to decide how long the straps should be? I will tell you that approximately 4 cm of the length of the strap is spent on a double knot. That there is 4 cm that will go into the knot, plus a few centimeters for the hanging “ears” - the ends of the straps.

The back of the top is modeled with the same width of the neckline and the width of the shoulder line - as the back part - so that they then match the front and back with each other when sewing.

Here - now we can say that our pattern is ready.

We sew a top with a knot tied at the bottom.

1) Cut out our pattern, place it on the fabric and trace it with chalk (remembering to LEAVE MARKS ON THE SHOULDER AND SIDE SEAMS). I told you how to cut stretch or slip fabric from fabric in this series of articles.

2) Sew the back piece to the front piece at the side and shoulder seams.

3) We process the bottom of the product: either we overlock it, or we bend it and stitch the edge - the processing goes along the entire bottom edge and along the edges of both straps.

4) We process the neckline and armholes ( I told you how to do it on stretch here)

TOP WITH TIES AT THE CHEST.

We also model this topic based on our BASIC PATTERN.

We take a copy of our base pattern, namely that BASIC PATTERN where the bust dart was removed. You remember that the basic pattern in its initial stage is drawn in three versions (for a tight-fitting silhouette, for a semi-fitting silhouette, for a loose silhouette). If we sew from stretch fabric, we need a pattern of an adjacent silhouette. Plus, you need to remove the chest dart from it (that is, turn the usual basic pattern of a close-fitting silhouette into a BASIC PATTERN FOR STRETCH FABRICS.

So let's take this one pattern-base for stretch , and we will now turn it into a pattern for our top with ties.

WE MODEL THE PATTERN OF A TOP WITH TIES.

For proper modeling, you need to carefully look at the photo of this topic:

we see that The neckline of the top starts at the side base of the neck- that is, it has the same width as the neckline on the base pattern, which means the edge of the base pattern neckline coincides with the same edge as our top (yellow dot). We see in the photo that the neckline area is very narrow - which means that on the pattern base you need to draw a sharply narrowing neckline.


Now you need to decide where you want the bottom edge of the top to go (judging by the photo - the bottom edge of the top runs 7-10 cm higher than the waist line). We measure the required distance on our pattern from the waist line up - mark it with a dot and draw a horizontal line.

Now we need to draw the strap itself, which will be tied. The length of the strap should be enough for the knot itself and for the protruding tails.

To find out how many centimeters to draw a strap, you can conduct a small experiment - take a strip of the same or another (similar in thickness) fabric, tie it into a knot, stepping back from the edge of the knot to the distance we need, make marks with chalk. Then untie the knot and measure the distance between the marks. This will be the length of the knot with two straps. Since we draw one strap on the pattern, we divide this value by two.

Or you can not check, but take Olga Klishevskaya’s word for it. I'll tell you that for ordinary stretch fabric, a double knot steals about 4 cm of its length from the strap. This means that the strap should be made with the calculation of 4 cm per knot, plus a few centimeters for the hanging ends.

Having thus calculated the length of the strap, you can begin to draw it. We draw it like in the picture - The strap-tie looks like a long triangular extension to the side of our shelf.


Now the front pattern is ready.

The back pattern is drawn even simpler - the lines of the armholes and shoulders coincide with those drawn on the base pattern. The neck line is the same depth as on the base pattern. And the line of the bottom edge of the top from the back (as well as the front part) runs 7-10 cm higher than the waist line.

We make a classic sleeve pattern according to my lesson “We make sleeves for clothes ourselves. Part 1". And since we need a clingy sleeve, we shrink it a little in width.

SEWING A TOP WITH TIES ON THE CHEST

1.) When all three patterns are ready (front, back and sleeves), place them on the fabric, trace them (for stretch, you don’t need to leave seam allowances), and cut them out. We get one back, two shelves and two sleeves.

2.) Now we sew the front and two back panels in the SHOULDER SEAMS (we don’t do the side seams yet, this will make it easier for us to sew in the sleeve).

3.) Sew the sleeve to the armhole (more on this in the same article about the sleeve).

4.) Sew the side seams of the top and the side seam of the sleeve (the vertical seam that runs along the arm)

5.) We process the bottom of the topic and the edges of the shelves, smoothly turning into the neckline (we bend the edge and attach or overlock it), We also process the lower edges of the sleeve.

That's it, our top with ties on the chest is sewn. I congratulate you on this.

They can be sewn from plain fabric or fabric with a pattern. In these photos, the models are made of slightly stretchy, dense stretch fabric. But you can make these same models from any other fabric (even non-stretch). So, let's start with the blue top, which has a drawstring.

BLUE TOP WITH RUGGED SHOULDER

We will make the top pattern based on our basic pattern. Therefore, in order not to spoil our basic pattern, we make a copy of it and it is this (copy) that we will modify, that is, change.

Let's take a closer look at the photo. What lines of armholes and necklines do we see?

We see that the neckline has a wedge-shaped (i.e., pointed downwards) shape. And the depth of the neckline does not reach the bust line by 3-4 cm (the same line along which we take the bust measurement, and which is drawn and labeled as the “bust line” on our pattern).

We see that the armholes have a classic height (i.e. the height of the armholes coincides with the height of the armholes on the pattern). This is very clearly visible in the photo - that the armhole ends at the level of the chest line - it is at the level of this chest line that the classic armhole on the base pattern ends) - this means we don’t need to change the height of the armhole. But we will change its configuration a little... because we need to change the shoulder line...

Now let's take a closer look at the shoulder. We see that when assembled (i.e., in the form of gathers), the shoulder width on our product coincides with the shoulder width measure (the same measure that is measured from the base of the neck to the shoulder bone, i.e., the one that is drawn on our pattern). But this is in assembled form. When unfolded, the shoulder width of the product should clearly be greater - judging by the density and depth of the folds, this width is 1.5 more. It means that on the pattern we should draw the shoulder line half its length more.

This is what we do - we reflect all our observations on the base pattern - we draw a wedge-shaped neck line not reaching 3-4 cm from the chest line. We do not change the height of the armhole. But we lengthen the shoulder line by half.

The silhouette of our top is semi-fitted on the sides. This means that we can leave the bend of the side lines the same as on the base pattern. But we leave the waist darts (those that go in the center) without attention - they will not close as in a strictly fitted silhouette, but will give additional centimeters for a loose fit.

Back pattern It looks the same as the front pattern, with the only difference being that the neckline is not as deep.

WE SEW A BLUE TOP WITH A GATHERING ON THE SHOULDERS.

1.) Sew the front piece and the back piece together at the shoulder seams, or sew the drawstrings first (see step 2), and then sew the shoulder seams - it doesn’t matter where you start.

2.) And immediately we make two drawstrings in the shoulders. To do this, cut out two strips from the remaining scraps of fabric. Their length should be 2 cm shorter than the length of the shoulder line on our product. Their width should be sufficient for the twine to be hidden under them, which we will stretch into our drawstring. Twine can be made from the same scraps of fabric ( I already told you how to make twine here). We sew the cut strips of the drawstring on one side and the other from the shoulder seam, we sew them along the very edge of the strips. Thus, under the stripes in the center we have a “tunnel-corridor” - we will pull twine or ribbon into it.

3.) Now that the drawstrings are sewn on. You can carefully trim the edges of the armholes. Fold and stitch the edge. But bend half a centimeter - so as not to close (!!!) the entrance holes of our drawstrings. In the same way, we carefully process the neckline with bias tape: we sew a seam, and in the area of ​​the shoulders we do not close the entrance holes of our drawstrings with a seam. We cut out the bias binding for the neckline from the same fabric.

4.) Now all that remains is to connect the side seams, process the bottom of the product and into our “corridochka drawstrings” pull the string in so that both ends hang outside the shoulder– we hold these tails and pull up the shoulder, forming a gather of the length we need – and we tie the tails of the twine to fix our gather.

That's all, our blue top with ruching on the shoulders is ready. Now let's start sewing a salmon top with gathering and a decorative patch on the shoulder.

TOP WITH RUBBLE AND SHOULDER PATCH.

The pattern for this top is easier to make than the first one. Let's take a look at him

– look, the shape and size of the neckline are exactly the same as the previous blue-eyed top. Length too. The width and degree of fit are the same. This means that on the pattern we draw exactly the same neckline and side curves and make the bottom edge at the same level. And all we need to do is model the shoulders. This is done like this: first we simply draw the silhouette of the shoulder straps. Regular width.

Then we determine at what level we will have this very line of tucks at the seam. Judging by the photograph, this line begins 5-7 cm below the shoulder line.

We measure this level on the straps of our pattern and cut the front pattern in this place. We do not change the upper part (the cut off top of the shoulder strap). But we expand the lower part of this same shoulder strap by 4-5 centimeters.

That's all, the front pattern is ready

The back pattern has the same width (not shape, but width) of the neckline and the same length of shoulder seams.

We cut out the details on the fabric. The tops of the shoulder - left and right. Front detail with extended straps. And the back part (it hasn’t changed in any way),

Now let's sew. First, take the front part and sew large stitches (by hand or on a machine) on the upper extended edges of the straps. We stitched and pulled the edges of the thread in the stitch - the stitch shrank and the fabric gathered into a gather. Let's assemble the assembly until then. Until it becomes the same length as the top of the shoulder - the edges should match in length when sewing.

Now we sew the tops of the hangers with the front straps - and now we have it in our hands one-piece stitched front part with tucks on the shoulders.

All that's left is to connect the front and back pieces together - at the side and shoulder seams - and finish the neckline and armholes with bias tape.

It's time to talk about tight-fitting stretch tops. These tops are very easy to sew if you follow simple rules... but I’ll tell you about that a little lower.

Let's look at these topics first. Here they are:

They all have one thing in common. They are sewn from stretch fabric basic pattern with a tight-fitting silhouette and with the chest dart removed from it. That is, to model all tight-fitting stretch tops we need Dartless Basic Running Silhouette Pattern. In the third article of this series about topics, we just learned how to make one from a Regular Pattern-base Dartless Pattern-base

Yes, yes, to create tight stretch tops we don’t need a base pattern with a bust dart. The fabric stretch stretches well and will lie on the chest as needed.

Here I showed how we remove the dart from the base pattern:

It's very cool... sewing from stretch. No tricks for you. No adjustment to the silhouette. The product will sit on you by itself, exactly following all the curves of your body.

Sewing from stretch or knitwear is pure pleasure. Especially if you have already read my articles in the series “ How to sew from knitwear“- there I told you what needles, threads, what machine stitches are best for sewing, how to process the edges of a product without an overlocker, how to take into account the degree of stretchability of the fabric when calculating the pattern.

Today we will need all this knowledge (and we will repeat it here and consolidate it in practice).

So let's get started.

We create a stretch top pattern based on our basic pattern.

This is the correct sequence of our actions.

Step 1. Take the TAP-FREE pattern-basis of the adjacent silhouette and make a copy of it.

Step 2. Find out the degree of ductility of our stretch knitwear. (we find the tensile coefficient of the fabric).

Step 3. Modify the pattern taking into account this stretch factor.

Step 4. On this stretch pattern adapted to our stretch, draw the lines of the neckline and armholes.

Now let’s go through this point in detail:

We take a copy from the dartless base pattern. Now we need to shrink it in width, according to how stretchy we bought the stretch.

To do this, take a centimeter ruler, our fabric and find out the degree of its stretchability. This is how we do it.

On the fabric in its calm (unstretched) state, measure a segment 10 cm long (we mark the boundaries of this segment with small pieces). It is important (!!!) that we measure the piece not at the edge of the fabric, but 10-15 cm below.

We stretch this marked segment with our hands, and in this stretched state we apply it to the ruler. By how many centimeters our stretched 10-centimeter segment has increased - this is the percentage of stretchability of our stretch fabric.

If 10 cm is stretched to 13 cm, then these additional 3 cm mean a stretch coefficient of 30%. If 10 cm stretches to 16 cm, then these additional 6 cm mean a stretch coefficient of 60%.

Different stretches have different degrees of ductility. The stronger the fabric stretches, the narrower our pattern should be (after all, when we put the top on the body, it will stretch and expand on its own).

And now, taking into account this degree of ductility of our fabric, we must modify our pattern. Therefore, we can safely narrow our pattern according to the percentage of stretch.

For example, the percentage of stretch elongation is 30%. This means our pattern should shrink in the chest and waist by 30%. How wide should it eventually become? Let’s say the width of the shelf pattern is 18 cm. This means 18 cm: 100 x 70 = 12.8 cm = rounded to 13 cm. That is, the width of our shelf from 18 should shrink to 13. This means that 5 cm must be removed from the sides of the shelf pattern - that is move the side line to the center by 2.5 cm and move the center line of the shelf another 2.5 cm.

If someone has a question - “Where did the figure 70 come from, if we were talking about 30%?” Let me explain:

we multiplied by 70 - because when we subtract something by 30%, this reduced remainder will be 70% of the initial whole. It's like if your child ate 30% of the cake and your guests only had 70% of the cake left. We need the neck to decrease by 30%, which means we need to know what the width of the neck will be if it decreases to 70%, so we divide by 100 and multiply at 70- this is how we find out the width of our “half-eaten” neck.

Here in the picture we see what this pattern compression looks like on both sides:

and now we look carefully at the picture and notice that the pattern has not only shrunk on both sides, but has also lengthened. We also see that in the picture I almost did not squeeze the pattern in the hip area. Why? Read on...

Important point No. 1: (you can reduce it by eye)

It is not necessary to reduce the pattern STRICTLY BY THIS PERCENTAGE - you can reduce it not by 30%, but by 20%, or even by 10% - because the more you reduce the pattern, the tighter the product will hug your body. Why do we need the topic to choke us? Of course, if you are sewing shapewear for figure correction, then you need to reduce the maximum percentage of the maximum stretch of the fabric. But if you are sewing a regular top, then a gentle stretch around your body is enough for us. I generally reduce the pattern by eye.

Important point No. 2 (leave freedom below the waist)

The pattern does not need to be reduced particularly in the hip area. I’ll explain why - if your top ends below the waist - that is, on the hips - then in this hip area it should not be stretched. Otherwise, with any of your movements (walking or just fidgeting in a chair), the top will inexorably creep up (according to the laws of physics) - I have one such top creeping up and the same stretch dress - after the fifth step it rises to an unacceptable height and it has to be worn every tighten once. This happened because the factory did not make an extension in the hip area, and the stretch fabric for sewing was chosen to be very elastic - so the result was a dress not for wearing, but for photographing (you can only stand calmly in it and smile).

Important point #3 (remember the decreasing length)

The law of stretching of any matter says - If you stretch something in width, it will decrease in length.

For example, take a regular elastic band - its width is 1 cm when relaxed - but if you stretch it, its width will become 5 mm. It’s the same with a top - in a calm, unstretched form, its length can reach your mid-thigh, but if you put it on, you will find that it has become much shorter.

When we draw a pattern, we need to make it a little longer than we need– when we sew and put on a top, it will stretch in width and accordingly shorten in length.

All these moments We definitely need to take this into account when drawing our stretch top. And then you won’t be disappointed after the first try on. And you can sew yourself different, different tops from different fabrics.

But every time when sewing, look at the stretch and estimate with a ruler (or by eye) the degree of its ductility and compress the pattern accordingly this degree of ductility.

Remember THE SAME PATTERN of a stretch top when sewn from different stretch fabrics will give different tops(one can hang loosely on you, and the other can dig into your fat) - and all because for one you choose a fabric with high ductility, and for the other a low-stretch fabric. Sew, train, fill your hand.

So, when we have a base pattern specially compressed for our stretch, we can easily model tops with any neck shape, width of shoulder straps and depth of armholes.

Galina THANK YOU! As much as I sew, I want to create a basic pattern, now, thanks to your site, I definitely will! Thank you!

In the modern world, stores have a huge selection of a wide variety of clothes, so to speak, for every taste. But, nevertheless, there are times when you want to buy a specific T-shirt, which you have already even mentally imagined in all its details, but you simply cannot find it in the store. What is the way out of the situation? You can sew a thing to order, which is not difficult, but it can significantly hit your pocket and in the end the T-shirt will cost you much more than its real cost. But you can also sew a women’s T-shirt yourself. Of course, the question immediately arises: how to sew a T-shirt yourself? In fact, everything is not as complicated as it seems at first glance. In order to sew a T-shirt, the most basic sewing skills that everyone receives in craft lessons at school are enough. So, let's take a closer look at how to sew a T-shirt with your own hands.

Sewing a T-shirt - master class

Before we move on to the part in which we discuss how we sew a T-shirt with our own hands, we need to understand what you will need for this.

  • textile;
  • threads;
  • needle;
  • sewing machine;
  • a pattern or a finished T-shirt that will play the role of a pattern.

We have decided on the necessary materials, and now we move on directly to describing the process of how to sew a T-shirt from knitwear.

Step 1: For convenience, you can use another T-shirt instead of a pattern. Just apply it to the fabric you are going to make a T-shirt from and use it to decide what shape you want to make your T-shirt. But it’s still advisable to take all your measurements so that you know your sizes in case something needs to be adjusted. Cut out your T-shirt, sew all the seams, hem the edges if desired. Previously, all edges on clothes were stitched to prevent the fabric from unraveling and sticking out with sloppy edges, but now unstitched edges, in principle, are a stylish solution, not sloppy. From the same fabric, cut out some kind of elastic for a T-shirt. Since knitwear stretches, make this “elastic band” precisely according to the volume of the hips.

Step 2: Next, sew this “elastic” to the bottom edge of the T-shirt. Before you grab your sewing machine, be sure to baste by hand to prevent the knit from moving as you sew. After this, the matter remains small. As mentioned earlier, these are the seams along the edges of the sleeves and at the top neckline. Here you can give room to imagination. Also, imagination will not be superfluous when deciding what style to sew a T-shirt. Since you sew, you lead the parade. There should be no restrictions and no rules - you decide for yourself how your product should look. So give free rein to your imagination in this matter, taking all the advice only as a note.

So we figured out how to make a T-shirt with your own hands. The process is simple, but incredibly exciting and creative.

A T-shirt is a familiar wardrobe item that can be worn in any situation. It is incredibly simple, but everyone needs it. It can be combined with different things and complemented with accessories. A T-shirt that fits well will be appropriate both on the beach and in the office. You just need to approach its choice with imagination. You can feel comfortable in a product made of high-quality fabric in the summer heat. And on a cool day it will warm you with cozy warmth.

You don’t have to buy a useful thing. We'll tell you how to make a new thing yourself.

Preparing for work

To make a T-shirt you will need to take measurements. And besides, find out how much the knitwear will stretch during the process.

Required data

  • neck circumference (NC).
  • Chest circumference (CG). Removed strictly horizontally through the protruding points of the chest
  • Hip circumference (H). Measured horizontally through the protruding points of the buttocks.
  • Armhole depth (HD). This is the distance from the top of the shoulder to the armpit.
  • Product length (DI).

If the fabric can be stretched by 130-150% without losing its appearance, then it is necessary to use a negative increase factor of 20%.

If the material has an average degree of elongation, then the increase in loose fit will be zero.

Important. Before working with knitted fabric, it must be washed in a gentle cycle and ironed (“knitwear” mode).

How to sew a simple summer T-shirt without a pattern

When you need to do the work yourself, quickly, in a short time, without a pattern, you need to perform several steps.

  • Take your own T-shirt, the style of which you are completely satisfied with.
  • Fold it in half, face inward, and trace the outline on paper.
  • Fold the cut in half, place the paper pattern close to the fold and cut out the back.
  • Deepen the neck to the desired size.
  • Cut out the front of the T-shirt.

In places where seams are supposed to be seamed, maintain an allowance of 1 cm. First, sew the shoulder parts of the T-shirt with a regular seam, and then work it with a zigzag.

Sew the sides of the product in the same way. If the fabric is very elastic, then use only this stitch. This way the seam will not burst during wear.

Finish the neckline and armholes. Then bend it inward by 0.5 cm and sew a regular stitch (stitch length 2-3 mm). Do the same on the bottom.

Advice. To prevent the pattern from slipping on the fabric during the cutting process, you can fix it with needles.

For an attractive and neat look, the neckline is edged. This will prevent stretching during wear.

The piping will require knitwear of a similar or contrasting color. A strip 4 cm wide is cut from it on an oblique. The next procedure is as follows.

  • Fold the strip face outwards and iron it.
  • Unfold and place each half inside, iron. You will get a edging in 4 additions.
  • Sew one shoulder.
  • Starting from the free shoulder, attach the piping to the front side of the product. Baste to the neckline, pulling slightly.
  • Attach the inner part of the edging so that the basting lines match and the neckline is covered with fabric as much as possible.
  • Use a sewing machine to sew a seam at a distance of 1 mm from the edge.

Remove the basting and sew the second shoulder. You can process the armhole in the same way. This must be done before the sides are sewn.

This way you can sew a homemade T-shirt from an old T-shirt for a little girl.

How to sew a women's one-shoulder T-shirt

Asymmetrical armholes are a fashion trend. To make a one-shoulder top yourself, you should build a pattern according to all the rules. Or you can use a ready-made T-shirt or T-shirt.

The procedure for making a fashionable top

  • Lay the T-shirt on the surface.
  • Move 2 cm down from the armhole on one side.
  • Apply a long ruler and draw a straight line to the second strap;
  • Cut off unnecessary parts with sharp scissors.

To secure the neckline, you will need an elastic band. Finish the edge with a zigzag, turn it inward and stitch so that you can thread the elastic through.

This neckline will not stretch, and the top will stay securely on the body. To decorate the product, you can attach a brooch or other decorative element to the shoulder.

Advice. You can do the same with a T-shirt, then you get a blouse with one sleeve.

How to sew a T-shirt dress

A tank dress can be a comfortable staple in your wardrobe. For this dress you will need:

  • cut, width 140-150 cm and length equal to the length of the dress.
  • Two T-shirts, one of which fits the figure, and the second has a loose silhouette.
  • Scissors, needles and threads.

To construct a pattern grid, you need to draw a rectangle with the dimensions DI vertically and half-hip circumference horizontally.

  • Fold the smaller shirt right side inward and trace it on the paper.
    Attach a large T-shirt to the armhole line. Extend its side line to the bottom.
    Cut out parts taking into account allowances.
  • Deepen the neck and repeat all steps for the shelf.

How to sew a sleep shirt

In order to make a comfortable night shirt for sleeping, you will need two pieces of fabric measuring 50x50 cm.

Before

  • Lay one of the cuts on a flat surface and fold in half.
  • Measure from the upper inner corner 12 cm down (neck) and 10 cm to the side (shoulder point). Connect the dots;
  • Set aside the width of OG/4 +1 cm, cut off the excess fabric.
  • Place 7 cm down from the upper outer corner (armhole). Connect with a smooth line to the shoulder point.
  • Place 6 cm down from the armhole and draw a horizontal line 11 cm long (bust point).
  • Mark 1 cm up and down from the corner of the groove. Connect each one to a chest point to form a triangle.
  • Sew the undercuts and smooth them out.

Back

  • From the upper inner corner, set aside 12 cm downwards (cut).
  • Measure the width of the product OG/4 +1 cm.
  • Connect the cutout point with the outer upper corner with a smooth line and cut it out.

To strengthen the top of the T-shirt, you need to cut strips of fabric 10 cm wide, repeating the top lines of the pattern. Prepare the straps: cut out rectangles 3 cm wide and stitch them together. You can use ready-made bias tape.

Assembly

  • Process all parts using an overlocker or zigzag stitch.
  • Sew the sides.
  • Baste the straps.
  • Sew the facing to the top.
  • Process the bottom.

If the fabric is loose, then you can use a linen or “Moscow” seam. The technology is as follows: fold the parts back to back, stitch, turn them inside out and stitch again so that the edges are inside the seam. Iron the finished product.

Advice. To make adjustable straps, use a buckle with a jumper. You need to thread the fabric through the buckle before it is sewn to the shirt.

If you additionally sew shorts, you will get a wonderful pajama set for sleeping.

T-shirts, similar to linen tops, are now at the height of fashion. It is not at all difficult to sew such a product with your own hands. For decoration you will need black lace. It can be stitched on top, or it can be inserted between the facing and the shelf.

Tips for Beginners

  • It is not always possible for a beginning seamstress to work with knitwear. Often, due to inexperience, the side seams are too tight, so the product wrinkles.
  • To prevent the side seams from being pulled together, you can use tracing paper. It is attached with needles on both sides of the product. Then a seam is laid and the paper is carefully torn off.
  • To avoid damaging the product, you must try on the shirt at every stage. In addition, basting stitches and using an iron will help.
  • Necessarily treat fabric before sewing to prevent shrinkage of the finished product.

Features of sewing a T-shirt with straps and spaghetti straps

When making a tank top with straps, you can use several ways to attach them.

Mounting options:

  • strong threads;
  • decorative rings with threaded straps;
  • straps made of bias tape.

The peculiarity of the cut of a tank top with straps is that the details are cut without taking into account the straps. This means it requires less fabric. To make straps, identical fabric, ready-made binding, or any other material can be used.

Specifics of working with different materials

Each fabric has its own unique properties that must be taken into account when working. By following simple rules, you can avoid difficulties.

When working with the atlas

  • Wash and iron before use, as the fabric may shrink.
  • Iron along the warp thread so as not to stretch the fabric or deform the product.
  • Before cutting, cover the surface of the table with a non-slip cloth.
  • Take seam allowances into account when creating the pattern.
  • Choose thin and sharp needles so that there are no puffs left on the surface.
  • Baste the satin pieces so that they move synchronously under the sewing machine foot.

When working with knitwear you need

  • Take into account the direction of the grain thread when cutting.
  • Do not stretch the material to avoid warping.
  • When processing cuts, add bias tape to prevent the seam from lengthening.
  • Use special needles with a rounded end.
  • Check the quality of the seam on a separate flap.
  • Do not stretch the fabric when stitching.
  • Iron all seams through a damp cloth to make them smoother.

The main advantage of knitwear is its elasticity and ability to return to its original shape. This feature must be taken into account in your work and used for your own purposes.

How to decorate a T-shirt with lace

Lace is a decorative element that will turn even the most ordinary everyday T-shirt into an exquisite evening outfit.

Use Cases

  • Make a cut along the back from the bottom, leaving 5-10 cm to the top, and insert a lace triangle with a wedge.
  • Sew lace elements in the form of a collar.
  • A piece of cotton lace can be sewn anywhere on the T-shirt, and then the excess material can be cut off from the inside.

You can use lace in the color of the T-shirt or in contrasting colors.

Unusual DIY T-shirts

How to sew a T-shirt for a doll

Making clothes for dolls is jewelry work. Our advice will help even a girl cope with it. To create a pattern, the doll is placed on a surface, shoulder lines, armholes and vertical lines are indicated. They are carried out tangentially to the body.

You need to make two such sketches: for the back and for the shelf. Deepen the neck on the shelf part. Cut the back in half lengthwise.

Cut out three pieces with seam allowances. The details come together. When sewing the back, the size of the doll's head is taken into account. After trying it on, you can determine how to stitch the back. And at the top you will need to sew a button or Velcro.

How to sew a T-shirt for a car seat

To sew T-shirt-type protective covers for car seats, you need to make a pattern. Using paper (polyethylene) and a marker, trace the following details:

  • front part of the backrest;
  • backrest;
  • sitting

The side parts of the seat should not be covered with covers, because they will block the airbag modules.

When choosing fabric for covers, you should give preference to thick knitwear. The front part of the cover will be made of two elements (seat and back), the back part will be made of one. The top of the parts is sewn together like a T-shirt, so that the headrest passes through the “neck”. To process the side cuts, you should choose a thick, wide elastic band and use it to make ties for fastening.


In summer, you can't do without an open knitted T-shirt. The pattern of a women's T-shirt is made according to your measurements very simply. When creating a pattern for a women's T-shirt, you should take into account that the knitted fabric stretches by about 15-20% of the original size.

Therefore, when constructing a T-shirt pattern, it is necessary to subtract 15% of the measured value from the half-chest measurement.

Sewing School of Anastasia Korfiati
Free subscription to new materials

Before you start creating a pattern for a women's T-shirt, you need to take the following measurements:

Bust- 92 cm (half chest circumference - 46 cm)

Back length to waist— 38 cm

Armhole depth according to measurements— 21-22 cm

Hips height(measured from the waist to the side hips) - 20 cm

From point A downwards, set the length of the back to the waist according to the measurement - point T.

From point T downwards, set the height of the hips according to the measurements - point B.

Draw horizontal lines. From point B, lower the perpendicular down.

T-shirt neckline. From point A, set aside 7 cm to the right and 15 cm down. Using the pattern, draw the neckline of the front of the T-shirt.

Shirt shoulder width. From the point of the neckline to the right, set aside 3 cm - the width of the shoulder of the T-shirt. Place 1.5 cm upward from the left point of the shoulder—shoulder elevation.

Using the template, draw an armhole cutout as shown in Fig. 1.

From point T1 to the left, set aside 2.5 cm. Draw a line for the side of the T-shirt as shown in Fig. 1 Pattern for the front of the T-shirt.

Constructing a T-shirt back pattern

The pattern for the back of the T-shirt is similar to the pattern for the front of the T-shirt, with the exception of the neckline of the back - from deeper. For a detailed drawing of the T-shirt back pattern, see Fig. 2 Pattern for the back of the T-shirt.

How to cut a T-shirt

Front pattern - 1 piece with fold

Back pattern - 1 piece with fold

The seam allowance for the T-shirt is 0.5 cm, the allowance for the neckline and armholes is not allowed (!), the allowance for the bottom of the T-shirt is 2 cm.

You will need: oblique finished knitted tape for processing the armholes and neck of a T-shirt and a double needle for hemming the bottom of a T-shirt.

How to sew a T-shirt

Place them face to face and use an overlocker or a zig-zag stitch (stitch width 4 mm, stitch length 2 mm) to sew the side seams of the T-shirt and the shoulder seams of the T-shirt.

Tuck the bottom of the T-shirt and stitch with a double needle.

Fold the finished knitted tape in half, wrap it around the neckline of the T-shirt and stitch it, slightly stretching it along the edge of the tape. Tuck the ends of the binding and re-stitch (at the side seams). Process the armholes of the T-shirt in the same way.

Every girl wants to be beautiful, and it’s hard to blame her for this. But what to do when finances sing romances, but you still need to update your wardrobe? And here you should remember, and if you don’t remember, then learn how to cut and sew. For what? Well, of course, because in every closet there are t-shirts or dresses lying around. Therefore, you can think about how to sew a T-shirt from unnecessary clothes.

Or simply use a ready-made pattern on the Internet and create a simple product using it. In fact, there is nothing complicated about this. Of course, it’s impossible to make a completely elaborate thing the first time, but it’s quite possible to sew a simple T-shirt from chiffon or knitwear.

Option No. 1 of a T-shirt product

Before sewing a T-shirt, for example, from knitwear, you should prepare all the tools and consumables.

For this work you will need:

  • paper that will help you create a pattern;
  • an old T-shirt from which you can take measurements;
  • textile;
  • sewing equipment - thread, scissors and sewing machine.

The entire creation process looks like this:

  1. First of all, the pattern is prepared. To do this, an old T-shirt is folded vertically in half, after which paper is laid on top. It is necessary to draw the contours of the product on it. It’s worth noting right away that for lovers of a deep neckline, two patterns should be prepared, since they will indicate the front and back separately;
  2. Using pins, the sketch is secured to the fabric. If you have never had to deal with sewing before, then it is better to sew it from knitwear, it is not as capricious as chiffon. But if you are determined to sew it from just such fabric, you can initially make a trial version for the doll. Firstly, this will be additional training, and secondly, it will allow you to decide on the model and make additions in the future;
  3. Using the patterns, the contour is transferred to the fabric, but taking into account future seams. Next, the two blanks are fastened together with hairpins or pins on the shoulders and sides. After this, the seams are marked. Before sewing a T-shirt from knitwear or other fabric, you should choose the right threads for your sewing machine. For example, if you choose coarse ones for chiffon, the seam will constantly pull together or the needle will not make a stitch at all. Therefore, this point is worth taking into account;
  4. For a chiffon T-shirt, you will need an additional ribbon. The fact is that such a thin fabric can tuck heavily, so it must be edged on the inside first with a pin, and then fixed with a machine;
  5. The last step is stitching the neckline and openings. First, the edges are folded and then stitched.

The edges of the T-shirt can be ironed along the seams to make the product look neater. Well, now you can put it on and go out.

Using an old T-shirt

You can also make a great T-shirt from a T-shirt. In this case, the knitted or chiffon fabric is replaced with an old T-shirt. By the way, this option is much easier than making patterns, since you will have a completely finished product in front of your face.

So:


  1. Before you sew a new T-shirt from an old T-shirt, you need to find it. It is best to choose a base that is a little larger in size, and the best option would be men's T-shirts. But if this is a women's item, then it is better when it is made of knitwear, since in this model you will need to tighten it a little;
  2. First, the collar is cut parallel to the seam, then a similar procedure is carried out with the sleeves. Then, a neckline is created, for which an outline is made on the front part with a marker. This stitch will allow you to make the cut more evenly. It is very convenient to first make an outline on only one half, and then fold the T-shirt in half and cut it out. This way the likelihood of a symmetrical cut will be greater;
  3. Next comes work on the straps. They will serve as the area of ​​the T-shirt that remains near the sleeves. They are formed into rectangles, after which they are stretched and tied with a knot so that their ends are located on the inside of the T-shirt. The remainder is cut off.

The convenience of homemade T-shirts is that they can even be sewn under a dress. In this case, you only need to stitch the bottom of the skirt. It will look very romantic and easy to wear a jersey top on a dress and a chiffon bottom. The main thing is not to forget to sew a lining under it, otherwise everyone outside will be able to appreciate the underwear.

Option No. 2

You can also decorate old T-shirts in a peplum version. By the way, today this style is considered very popular and fashionable, and creating such a T-shirt will not be difficult.

If you want to get an item with a bow, you will need:

  • old unnecessary jersey T-shirt;
  • a piece of fabric (preferably chiffon): width 10 cm, length – 1.5 m;
  • scissors, thread and sewing machine.

The work is performed as follows:


  1. First, a bow is created, for which a piece of fabric is folded lengthwise and stitched, but not all the way, so that it is possible to turn the ribbon inside out. After turning, the end is sewn diagonally to make the seams look neater;
  2. Next, the sleeves are removed from the T-shirt and lines are drawn that will connect the lowest points of the shoulder seam. Cuts are also made along it;
  3. After this, the seams are stitched;
  4. Now the neckline is folded up to 5 cm, the edges are stitched. To make the T-shirt look neater, it is recommended to iron it;
  5. The last step is threading the ribbon and tying the bow.

And in this simple way, you can create a completely stylish T-shirt. By the way, this option is perfect as a top under a summer dress or skirt. Or you can think about how to make a one-piece tank dress.

Dressing up my daughter's dolls

What can bring a daughter and mother closer together? Of course, a joint activity! And what could be better than sewing clothes for a doll together? The most interesting thing is that you don’t need any special sewing skills, the main thing is desire and a little imagination. For this kind of work, you can rummage through your wardrobe and find a bunch of unnecessary old clothes that will now be put to good use. Before you sew a T-shirt or dress for a doll, you should think about what you will have to work with. In addition to old T-shirts, trousers, jeans and other paraphernalia of a woman’s wardrobe, you can pay attention to socks.

This is the simplest option:

  • a sock is placed on the doll and the required length for a dress or T-shirt is measured and cut;
  • then, on the “top” side, holes for the arms are measured and cut out;
  • To make the item look more neat, the upper part can be decorated with lace, satin ribbon or embroidered with beads.

For more complex models, you will need to prepare patterns. The same is done if the doll is larger than Barbie.

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