Tajikistan national costume. « Tajik national costume

Despite the fact that a certain part of Tajiks, especially in cities and workers’ settlements, now wear common urban dresses and shoes, the national Tajik costume continues to exist, mainly among the rural female population. It has been preserved to the greatest extent in remote mountainous areas.

Women's costume in the mountainous regions (Karategin and Darvaz) consists of a dress-shirt-kurta, bloomers - ezor or poytsoma, quilted robe - tsoma, head scarf - rumol (numol), soba, doka. In recent years, in regional centers they have also begun to wear a kamzul - outerwear in the form of a coat that is narrow at the waist, borrowed from the inhabitants of the lowland regions. Shirts are usually sewn from paper and silk factory fabrics, plain white, colored, or from printed chintz and satin with bright patterns; In some places there are also kurtas made from handicraft paper and silk fabrics. The tunic-shaped kurta serves as both underwear and outerwear; they sew it from one piece of fabric, folded in half on the shoulders; Beveled wedges are inserted into the sides, the sleeves are made long and straight along the entire length and sewn to the main panel.

Most of all, shirts differ from each other in the cut of the collar, which is associated with their name: shirts with a wedge-shaped deep neckline on the chest - peshchokak, with a standing collar with pleated gathering - parpari, with a standing collar without gathering - TsazoTsy, a dress with a cut-off yoke and a turn-down collar - Uzbek; Previously, a girl's shirt, unlike women's shirts, was sewn not with a vertical slit in the front, but a horizontal one on the shoulder; now this difference has disappeared. Shirts for girls and young women were decorated with embroidery along the collar, at the ends of the sleeves, and at the hem.

Women's trousers are usually wide-cut and reach the ankle; the bottom of the trouser legs is folded and hemmed; sometimes it is trimmed with patterned braid - hyeroza; Bloomers are often made from two types of fabric; the upper part - the bodice - is made of handicraft cotton fabric - karbos, the top is folded and hemmed, passing a ribbon. The lower part (trouser legs and wedges in the step) is made of colored chintz, satin, silk, semi-silk fabric bekasab or adras.

Women's robe almost no different in cut from men's. In the old days, women in mountainous regions did not wear robes at all; it was believed that a woman did not need outer clothing.

Headscarves are made from white muslin; factory-made white knitted scarves, silk or wool blends, are also worn; the scarf is usually large (up to 2 m on each side), folded diagonally and thrown over the head with the ends behind the back; young women often tie a headscarf, covering their foreheads and tying the ends at the back of their heads. Recently, women began to wear skullcaps - totsi, which was not the custom before. Women comb their hair in the middle, then weave thin braids in front - pecha, braiding the forehead, as well as on the sides, above the ears - torak; The main two braids, braided behind the ears, are called goose; torak braids are braided to them. Artificial braids made of simple or black woolen threads are usually woven into their own braids - chura, kokul, ending with tassels of multi-colored threads and beads.

Shoes are now worn mainly from factories, mostly shoes or rubber galoshes with pointed toes. Sometimes they also wear mausya - soft shoes with high tops, worn with galoshes, which at one time were borrowed from the Tatars. Sometimes you can also find ancient local wooden shoes called kaugi with three spikes. In the warm season, shoes are worn on bare feet, and in the cold season, on woolen ornamented stockings; Local women knit such stockings from multi-colored woolen threads.

A permanent decoration for women are beaded neckbands - gulu - bandakzh necklace - muura, which are made from coins and coral beads. Bracelets are also used - metal and made of beads; some beads are given magical meaning; They also wear rings, sometimes with a colored glass eye.

The men's suit consists from a shirt, trousers, robe, waist scarf and skullcap. Shirts and trousers are now made from light factory fabrics. The men's shirt - kurtai kitfak - has the same cut as the women's kurta, only they make it shorter, with slightly narrower short sleeves, sometimes slightly slanted, with a semicircular neckline and a horizontal slit along one of the shoulders (shirts are also available with a vertical neckline on the left side of the chest). Another type of shirt became widespread - kurtai yaktagy, borrowed, possibly, from the population of the Fergana Valley. Ezor pants are made, like women's, with a drawstring, wide at the top and tapering at the bottom, but shorter than women's. The shirt is worn untucked, over the trousers and is belted with a large scarf folded diagonally - loshch or chorsu embroidered along the edges (literally - four sides). A robe is worn over the shirt and pants. A summer robe without lining used to be made from a special handicraft cotton fabric - satraschy (the texture of which resembled a waffle towel), and now - from a factory fabric called yaktagy. In winter, they wear quilted robes made of colored factory fabrics, lined with cotton wool. However, the most typical outerwear for men in mountainous regions in cold weather is wide trousers - gioraeza and a wide wrap-around robe with very long sleeves - chakman; both are sewn from handicraft narrow woolen fabric - raez, very dense and well-made; the collar of the chakman is decorated with an ornament of colored woolen threads; Chakmans and Shoragzas have a natural coat color - white, black or brown. Shoragza and chakman are usually worn in cold weather or on a long journey, while the robe worn under the chakman is also tucked into the shoragza. In winter, a belt scarf is usually worn over a quilted robe or chakman.

The skullcap is the headdress of men of all ages. Typical for mountainous regions is a cone-shaped skullcap with a round band; such a skullcap is stitched, and into the stitches diverging from its top, between the top of the skullcap and the lining, cotton wool, rolled into a tight roller, is inserted for strength; Along the band, the stitching goes around in horizontal rows. Skullcaps in most cases are embroidered with floral or geometric patterns; The band is trimmed with ornamented sheroza braid, embroidered with a chain stitch. In recent years, the Chusti skullcap has penetrated into the mountainous regions (see below). The turban, common in other areas, is almost never worn in the mountains.

In cold weather, a woolen scarf is wrapped over the skullcap or fur hats are worn. Men, as a rule, shave their heads, Tajiks in national clothes. Northern leaving a mustache; They grow a beard at an older age.

Mountain Tajiks wear colored woolen stockings, jurab. The calves of the legs, especially on a long journey, are tightly bandaged with a wide braid - poi-toba, which, according to the existing concept, gives the leg strength when walking. Shoes made of rawhide - choruTs, or mukki, made of more carefully treated leather, are sewn from two halves, with a seam in the middle, on a soft sole; In some places they still use wooden shoes - kaush.

The lowland Tajiks of the northern regions (Leninabad and adjacent regions) no longer use some of the handicraft fabric that still exists in the mountains (with the exception of some types of silk fabrics produced in weaving workshops). Women's clothing among Tajiks in the northern regions also consists of a kurta shirt and ezor pants. From childhood until the age of 40-45, women now wear kamzulburish shirts (camisole-style shirts). This is a long shirt reaching to the ankles, with a cut-off yoke, seams on the shoulders and long sewn-in straight sleeves; The waist of the shirt is cut straight and gathered at the yoke into gathers or folds, the front of the yoke is cut vertically and the edges of the cut are hemmed, the collar is made turn-down. Elderly women wear tunic-shaped shirts, similar in style to the shirts of mountain Tajiks, but with a stand-up collar fastened in the front, these shirts are called ittiko. Shirts are made of cotton or silk, from patterned fabrics, brighter for girls and young women, darker for older women, light or white for old women. The pants are made wide at the top, narrow and trimmed with embroidered silk braid (tsiyak) at the bottom. A short jacket - kastu m - is used as outerwear, both at home and on weekends; Everyone wears it, except little girls and very old women. Young girls and girls wear a short vest. Along with jackets, women also wear robes - chapon. Robes are always made with cotton wool (in summer, with a thin cotton stitch). These robes have the appearance of a coat fitted at the waist with a turn-down collar and wide lapels, with a tab at the waist. Outerwear is made mainly from plush, corduroy, and velvet.

The head is covered with a scarf- the king, now mainly silk, colored, lighter and brighter for young women and darker for the elderly. There are many ways to tie a scarf; most often the scarf is folded diagonally and, draped over the head, tied with a simple knot at the back of the head, leaving the ears open; sometimes, for example during work, the scarf, crossing the ends at the back of the head, is tied with a knot in the front; in winter, a woolen or down one is worn over a regular scarf. Nowadays, the skullcap is becoming increasingly common in everyday life as a summer women’s headdress; It is worn mainly by girls and young women, often without a headscarf, sometimes placing braids around it. The skullcap as a women's headdress appeared only after the revolution, as well as in the mountainous regions; Before the revolution, only women of the lower Zeravshan valley (Tajiks of Samarkand and Bukhara) wore a skullcap under a headscarf. Girls, as well as girls and young women, wear their hair in many braids, both front and back; As women age, they stop braiding their hair in the front. Recently, many women have begun to wear braids around their heads, due to the convenience of such a hairstyle while working.

Little jewelry is now worn, the most common of which are earrings.

Makhsi with galoshes are now usually worn by elderly women, and the rest wear them only in cold and dirty weather; Basically, women switched to factory-made shoes - open shoes or low shoes, which are worn outside the home with stockings.

A men's suit consists of an untucked shirt, usually white, trousers tucked into boots, a belt and a skullcap; in cold weather they wear robes.

Boys and young men wear shirts straight Russian cut with a high collar. Older men wear the kurtai yakhtak shirt, typical of the Fergana Valley. It has a tunic-like cut, beveled, widening sides and tapering sleeves; A deep cutout is made in the front, sewn on, the collar at the back disappears at the front. This shirt originates from the yaktagi body robe, worn back in the 19th century. Locally cut trousers, wide, with a drawstring at the top, are gradually falling out of use; they are now worn only by older people. The shirt is worn over pants, belted with a scarf belt made of silk or paper fabric, embroidered on four sides; The ends of the scarf are tied in a knot at the waist or hips, slightly to the side. In some places, it is customary to tie two scarves at once, one of them serves as a kind of pocket (bread and various small items are wrapped in it, and a knife in a sheath is hung from it). Robes, like women's ones, are made with cotton wool; they have a tunic-like cut; They are sewn mainly from satin or semi-silk fabrics produced by local enterprises.

Of the skullcaps, which are literally worn by everyone, from children to the elderly, the most common is the Chusti skullcap (literally “Chust” - usually black, square, with four images of “cucumber” or “pepper” embroidered with white threads). In the cold season, men, as in mountainous regions, tie headscarves over their skullcaps or put on a fur hat. Previously, people usually shaved their heads, but now they cut their hair more often, and young people often leave their hair long. Nowadays, most young men also shave their beards and mustaches or leave the mustache on. Only older people wear beards.

The shoes they wear are factory-made - high boots, and sometimes canvas shoes and boots in the summer.

As can be seen from the above, there are differences in the national costume of Tajiks, the most significant in the clothing of mountain and lowland Tajiks. But some differences can be observed in individual areas. Thus, Ferghana Tajiks are characterized by a shorter, figure-hugging robe, with narrow and relatively short sleeves, while Tajiks of other places, in particular Gissar and the Zeravshan Valley, wear more spacious robes with wide sleeves; Fergana Tajiks' robes are made of dark-colored fabric - black, blue or green; Gissar maids' robes, Samarkand - Young collective farmer in festive clothes, Tsev and Kulob residents - are made of brighter colors, and the favorite colors of Bukharans are striped, pink and black. The types of skullcaps and their ornaments also vary in individual regions (the skullcaps of Isfara, Kanibadam, Leninabad and some other places are unique), as well as women’s hairstyles and the manner of braiding their hair.

However, the Tajik costume, even in former times, despite the significant isolation of individual areas, in particular mountainous ones, did not remain unchanged. It was said above about the penetration into the mountainous regions of such clothing elements as the makhsi, adopted from the plains, where they in turn were borrowed from the Tatars, or like a yakhtak-type shirt. Elements of costume and new fashions that again penetrated into one region or another were naturally perceived by the younger, less conservative generation, while the older generation continued to cling to the old days.

It is quite natural that with the elimination of former isolation after the revolution and in connection with the spread of factory-made clothing using national motifs, the penetration of individual elements of national clothing from one region to another became even wider; A striking example of this is the distribution of the Chusti skull cap almost everywhere among Tajiks and Uzbeks.

Along with the national costume, the common urban dress and shoes are increasingly becoming part of everyday life every year. As a result of this, at present, the costume of a Tajik and Tajik woman, especially in cities and industrial areas (among workers, office workers, intelligentsia), in regional centers, is already entirely urban or mixed, in which national clothing accessories are combined with urban ones.

It is characteristic that various types of local shoes disappear most quickly; for men they are replaced by boots and boots with galoshes, for women - shoes (usually with low heels) worn over stockings and socks. This “is explained by the much greater comfort and durability of factory-made shoes. The most persistently preserved national headdresses are skullcaps (which, as already mentioned, not only do not disappear, but have come into use among women), as well as bright and colorful head scarves, which are now produced taking into account the national tastes of the peoples of Central Asia, including including Tajiks.

Jacket and trousers are becoming increasingly widespread; they are often combined with such accessories of the national costume as a belt scarf and skullcap, and also often with a robe as outerwear. After the war, military-style tunics and trousers were adopted, which do not restrict movement and are comfortable. The intelligentsia, both in cities and in regional centers, wears white suits in warm weather - a white jacket and untucked trousers. Women, although they mainly retain the local national cut in their clothes, for dresses and outerwear they use factory fabrics, usually bright and richly ornamented in accordance with national taste.

Men's underwear, outerwear of local styles and women's clothing are sewn at home. Nowadays many homes have sewing machines. Men's suits are made in state sewing workshops. Many clothing accessories are purchased ready-made in the store, especially outerwear and suits. Ready-made purchased underwear is gradually coming into use, in particular T-shirts and panties, shirts, as well as stockings and socks.

Thus, among the accessories of the national costume, mainly those that are the most colorful, elegant and at the same time comfortable are preserved: skullcaps, women's headscarves, women's dresses, belt scarves and a robe typical of the peoples of Central Asia.

In Tajikistan, each region has its own national costume. The cut is approximately the same everywhere, but differs in color, embroidery, and the presence of decorations. Young people are increasingly wearing European clothes, but national Tajik costume is still very popular among villagers.

Men's and women's national clothing of Tajiks is very similar in cut - tunic-like, loose, and hides the figure well. Most Tajiks are adherents of Islam and do not welcome excessively tight clothing.

Tajik national clothing is distinguished by its brightness. The Tajik costume reflects the degree of prosperity. The more luxurious the outfit, the more expensive decorative details it contains, the richer its owner.

Special mention should be made about fabrics. Tajiks live in a hot climate, so they prefer cotton and silk fabrics. Purely national Tajik matters include I'm hungry(iridescent striped fabric of different colors, consists of cotton and silk), snipe(semi-silk fabric, striped or patterned) and brocade(silk fabric with gold and silver threads).

Since the traditional Tajik costume is multi-layered, the bottom layer of clothing is usually made from cheap fabric, and the top layer is made from more expensive fabric.

National clothing of Tajik men

The traditional costume of a Tajik man includes: a cotton shirt - “kurta”, trousers, a robe and a wide waist belt. The shirt is sewn from one piece of fabric. It is wide and does not restrict movement. Men wear it untucked, belted with a long narrow fabric or a special scarf folded diagonally. The scarf performs several functions: it is both a belt supporting the trousers and a kind of pocket.

It’s interesting that you can tell about a man’s well-being by looking at his belt. Thus, young, poor guys wore belts twisted from square scarves with “miyonband” or “belbog” embroidered on the edges. And wealthy men could afford wide velvet belts (“kamarband”), embroidered with gold thread.

Trousers(“ezor” and “ishton”) are also sewn quite wide, but tapering towards the bottom. Men wear a robe over their shirt (" chapan") loose-fitting, usually striped. Mountain Tajiks prefer chapans made of undyed wool, with an embroidered ornament on the collar.

The robe can be quilted if it is a winter clothing option. Classic chapans have become museum exhibits, and their place has been replaced by modern analogues - made of velvet. The main advantage of a classic chapan is that it retains heat in winter and coolness in summer. Since ancient times, men have been given chapan for important events - weddings, birthdays and even funerals. At a wedding, the bride's brother will not allow his sister to enter her husband's house until the groom's relatives give him a chapan.

And today, in the 21st century, young Tajiks, on the first day after their wedding, go out to people in chapans, and not in modern costumes. But in everyday life, modern men are increasingly combining traditional clothes with European ones. For example, they can wear bloomers with a jacket or a chapan and classic trousers.

Women's national clothing of Tajiks

Traditional Tajik women wear long shirt dresses ( kurtas) and loose-fitting two-layer harem pants. Shirts with sleeves that widen towards the bottom are decorated with embroidery and have different names depending on the type of collar. In the old days, gussets (inserts, wedges) of a different color were sewn into such shirts; this had a magical meaning and was believed to ensure fertility for the woman.

The shape of the collar neckline depended on whether the Tajik woman was married: young girls wore dresses with a horizontal collar neckline and ties at the ends of the opening. And after marriage, women began to wear dresses with a vertical neckline, decorated with embroidered braid. Women wore white dresses with a stand-up collar as underwear. At the same time, the outer dress had a cutout such as to show the embroidery on the collar, but nothing more.

Women's outerwear is a quilted robe (tsoma) of the same tunic-like cut as that of men, or a munisak, with a slightly different cut (there is no sewn-on collar, and there are ruffles under the sleeves). Elderly women, starting from the 19th century, wear munisaki without braid or lining; they are simply hemmed with a narrow strip of fabric of a different color.

Separately, it should be said about the burqa (“faranji”). Tajik women wore them mainly in cities where there were many strangers. The burqa symbolized purity, chastity, modesty and fidelity. Today it is an essential attribute bridesmaid outfit. In addition, it is believed that the burqa protects a pregnant woman from dark forces. And finally, this element of the costume allowed a woman to feed her child even in public.

Tajik headdresses

Men's headdress - skullcap. In cold weather, men wear fur hats or wrap a woolen scarf around their heads. Also still popular is the turban, which is worn over a skullcap or kuloh hat.

Women traditionally cover their heads with a headdress consisting of three components: a turban, a cap and a “lachaka” - a kind of scarf. Sometimes these elements can be used separately from each other.

The bride's head is still decorated with an embroidered scarf covering her face, neck and chest.

Recently, women have begun to wear skullcaps (totsi), which was not particularly accepted before.

National Tajik shoes

For urban Tajiks - both men and women - the usual footwear is soft “makhsi” boots. They were worn with leather ears. Ichigi (light boots with a soft toe and a hard back), made of goatskin and famous for their durability, were quite popular.

Rural residents had a more varied selection of shoes. In particular, both men and women, in addition to light shoes, wore high-heeled boots or wooden shoes with three legs, the so-called “kafshi chubin”.

National Tajik jewelry

Tajiks are very successfully combine traditional decorations with modern ones. Women love to wear necklaces, pendants, earrings and rings.

Jewelry can be seen not only on the neck and ears, but also on the headdress. These can be all kinds of pendants, brooches and beads.

Traditionally, national Tajik jewelry is forged and embossed, made of silver, and is somewhat massive. It is considered normal to wear 3-4 jewelry at the same time, or even more!

Do Tajik men wear jewelry? At different periods of history, Tajik men in some regions wore beads with pendants along with women. Previously, men also wore headbands and earrings; they indicated belonging to a certain ethnic group and a person’s status in society. Today only women wear jewelry.

This is, in general terms, the national clothing of Tajiks. In our time, it has certainly undergone changes, but traditional skullcaps, trousers and shirts of various colors are still very much loved by Tajiks, including young people.

clothes among employees and not to allow the promotion of alien - European - clothing. The country actively holds special fashion shows and competitions for fashion designers. And the hosts of state TV channels go on air in stylized Tajik clothes.

"National Accent"

National clothing is an expression of the identity of each nation. Today's story is about Tajik traditional costume.

In Tajikistan, each region has its own national costume. The cut is approximately the same everywhere, but differs in color, embroidery, and the presence of decorations.

Young people are increasingly wearing European clothes, but the national Tajik costume is still very popular among rural residents.

Men's and women's national clothing of Tajiks is very similar in cut - tunic-like, loose, and hides the figure well. Most Tajiks are adherents of Islam and do not welcome excessively tight clothing.

Since the traditional Tajik costume is multi-layered, the bottom layer of clothing is usually made from cheap fabric, and the top layer is made from more expensive fabric.

National clothing of Tajik men

Trousers(“ezor” and “ishton”) are also sewn quite wide, but tapering towards the bottom. Men wear a robe over their shirt (“ chapan") loose-fitting, usually striped. Mountain Tajiks prefer chapans made of undyed wool, with embroidered patterns on the collar.

The robe can be quilted if it is a winter clothing option. Classic chapans have become museum exhibits, and their place has been replaced by modern analogues - made of velvet. The main advantage of a classic chapan is that it retains heat in winter and coolness in summer. Since ancient times, men have been given a chapan for important events - weddings, birthdays and even funerals. At a wedding, the bride's brother will not allow his sister to enter her husband's house until the groom's relatives give him a chapan.

Women's national clothing of Tajiks

Tajik headdresses

Men's headdress - skullcap. In cold weather, men wear fur hats or wrap a woolen scarf around their heads. Also still popular is the turban, which is worn over a skullcap or kuloh hat.

The bride's head is still decorated with an embroidered scarf covering her face, neck and chest.

Recently, women have begun to wear skullcaps (totsi), which was not particularly accepted before.

National Tajik shoes

National Tajik jewelry

Tajiks are very successful in combining traditional jewelry with modern ones. Women love to wear necklaces, pendants, earrings and rings.

Jewelry can be seen not only on the neck and ears, but also on the headdress. These can be all kinds of pendants, brooches and beads.

Traditionally, national Tajik jewelry is forged and embossed, made of silver, and is somewhat massive. It is considered normal to wear 3-4 jewelry at the same time, or even more!

The government of modern Tajikistan popularizes the traditional Tajik costume in a very unique way - representatives of ministries are regularly called upon to strengthen control over the wearing of national clothing among employees and to prevent the promotion of alien - European - clothing. The country actively holds special fashion shows and competitions for fashion designers. And the hosts of state TV channels go on air in stylized Tajik clothes.

National clothes of Tajiks. The Tajik woman, being gifted with a beautiful appearance, sought to maintain a sense of beauty in her clothes. Unlike representatives of the fairer sex of other nations, she had opportunities for diversifying her wardrobe, thanks to the country’s convenient location at the intersection of trade routes, centuries before the word “fashion” itself appeared. Perhaps this is why the national clothing of women in Tajikistan has been very diverse since ancient times, and the styles of dresses in most of its regions (including historical ones) can be very different. Tajik women, especially young ones, loved bright colors in clothes and always tried to combine shades. And we must pay tribute to their taste - they did not overdo it. “The range of favorite colors of materials for clothing among Tajik women was extremely diverse, bright, cheerful, without being at the same time offensive to the eyes, although color combinations were based on the principle of sharp contrast,” wrote anthropologists N. Ershov and Z. Shirokova based on the results research conducted half a century ago in Tajikistan. The clothes presented in the illustration were used to a greater extent by artists, who have always had a special place in Tajik history. This is how singers, dancers, etc. might have looked in earlier times. Although usually the costumes of the musicians, who then performed mainly shashmak, were distinguished by richer colors and materials (they were sewn, for example, with gold threads on dark fabric). One of the myths of today's Tajikistan is that the skullcap has been traditional for women since ancient times. This attribute, according to research by Soviet anthropologists, gained popularity and began to be used by girls in almost all regions of the country, as well as neighboring Uzbekistan, only in the 20th century, after the revolution. At the same time, it is worn mainly only by girls and young women. The most traditional headdress for Tajiks was a scarf - rўmol, kars, soba or latta. There were many ways to tie a scarf, many of which can hardly be found anywhere today. Of course, many regions had their own scarves, traditionally used only in that city or region. Kulyab girls traditionally wore muslin scarves in the form of wide long scarves, throwing one of the ends behind their heads, approximately as shown in the photo. True, the edges of the previous scarves were embroidered, and they were called lattai nakshini (painted fabric) or sarandoza. Instead of skullcaps, soft caps made of fabric were usually worn under scarves, which were called tўppi (the same as tokѣ - skullcap translated from Tajik). They, apparently, are the ancestors of today's women's skull caps. Elderly and old women wore a similar headdress - caps sewn from fabric (of a special shape), which were called kulўtapushak. Skullcaps, as we wrote earlier, are still worn mainly only by girls and young women. In the case of the girl in the photo, draped over a silsila headdress (or usually over a silk scarf) is a burqa made of locally produced heavy semi-silk banoras fabric, trimmed with silk braid and embroidery. Typically, such capes were monotonous and dark in color, only over time they began to be made brighter. Capes were also worn in Khujand and the surrounding area (today's Sughd region). Usually the set should also include a chashmband (literally “blindfolding/closing the eyes”) - a hair net that a woman would wear under a burqa, covering her face, before leaving the female half of the house. Earrings made of spiral-twisted wires with pendants, into which rubies and emeralds were previously inserted, are threaded into the ears. This is how girls usually put a scarf over their skullcaps in the mountainous regions of Tajikistan, for example in Ishkashim, in the western Pamirs. And the silver silsil decoration, which consists of figurines of various shapes connected by rings with pendants along the lower edge, was usually worn, on the contrary, on top of a scarf, under which there was another scarf, rumol, folded diagonally. This is exactly what the headdress of brides was like in the regions of Kulyab. However, the scarves in this case were of bright colors, mostly white. That is, in this case, in the illustration we see a mixture of styles (attributes and wearing customs) of different regions. A large necklace was called khaikal or zebi sina. It usually consists of plates connected by multi-row chains (usually seven), inlaid with colored glass eyes, turquoise and decorated with applied filigree, granulation and pendants, where the lowest plate was made larger than the rest. Over the dress the girl is wearing an analogue of a tulle bedspread trimmed with braid, which was called sarandozi túr. As outerwear, Tajik women wore light swinging robes with narrow and short, wrist-length sleeves, slightly fitting at the waist and sometimes without a collar. They were distributed mainly in lowland areas and were called munisak or kaltacha. Quilted cotton long robes called choma or chapon were especially common. Under them in the lowland areas they sometimes also wore sleeveless vests - kamzulcha, sewn to the length of the waist or slightly lower. In this photograph, a brocade painted burqa (a mandatory attribute until the beginning of the 20th century) is thrown over the girl’s head, which is usually accompanied by a hair net to cover her face - a chashmband. If the dress was the most important attribute of a woman’s costume in Tajikistan, then the second main part of it was the blind trousers, which are called, depending on the region of the country and style, poyoma, lozimi, ezor/izor or tanbei. They are still always worn when wearing national dresses. At the waist, they used to be tied together with a belt made of braid, threaded into the upper edge of the trousers, which was bent with a welt. Usually they were made from the same material as the dress. A modern interpretation of an ancient costume, combining the styles of robes that in former times would have been worn by Tajik shashmak women or young upper-class women (in this example the styles are mixed). Clothes made of rich red fabric with yellow embroidery (gold threads) could be afforded mainly by women from wealthy families or representatives of the arts, who were often gifted by their patrons. In former times, a standing collar was called kurtai sarostindori girebonash kazoqi, which literally translates as “a dress with cuffs and a Kazakh collar.” In the old days, in some mountainous regions of Tajikistan, unlike other regions, the sleeves of dresses were made narrow at the wrist, and the body of the dress was made narrow at the waist and wide at the hem. A girl in a satin dress, in a zarduzi skullcap, with her eyelashes lined and her eyebrows thickly covered, walked in esors made of satin, it all suited her very well, and a scarf made of silk, a kavsha with a delicate fringe. And the braids with fringes moved in her wake and in time. There were forty of those braids, lined up as if for a parade. She moved smoothly, like Pava, as her Mother taught her, gracefully waving her hand, as if she were about to dance. The Tajiks walk gently, as if they were floating in the sky. And their eyes look at the ground, everyone behaves modestly. And they will put their hand to their heart if they meet an old man, After saying hello, they will all ask if he has a headache? Our people are very kind, they are famous for their kindness. And our outfits are modest; you can distinguish them by their simplicity. In the simplicity of our outfits, there is both Charm and beauty. There is no need to compete with Fashion, let it catch up with us. The whole honest world speaks about the beautiful Tajiks. Modest Tajiks in the world occupy the first rank. If your daughter-in-law is in your house, she comes from Dushanbe, Your house will sparkle with Happiness, she will give you grandchildren.

Magazine with a porcelain doll - Dolls in folk costumes.

Magazine issue 56 - Tajik wedding suit.

Skullcaps

It is better to save a head with a hat than a turban without a head.

Both adult Tajiks and children had to cover their heads. In summer, men wore skullcaps. They differed in cut, fabric and ornament. There were tetrahedral skullcaps with a flat bottom and a cone-shaped top. On flat Fergana ones, made in Khujand (from 1936 to 1991, the city of Leninabad, formerly Khojent), images of almonds - bodom or capsicum - kalamfur, often also called a peacock feather, were embroidered on the black satin top.

Skullcaps of the Tashkent type, made of green velvet, were found both without embroidery and decorated with colorful floral patterns in the form of a bouquet of flowers. The top of Shakhrisyabz skull caps was completely covered with a floral pattern.

There were two types of hats in Tajik everyday life. Arakchin - light, lined, sewn from simple fabrics (tika), was worn to protect elegant skull caps from contamination. Along the edges the band ended with teeth. A kulokhom - a soft cap made of cotton wool with a sharp cone-shaped top - was replaced by a skullcap under a turban. To make the latter, as well as for the waist sash - feet - the material was woven in the form of long narrow strips.

The turban was most often found in the wardrobe of residents of the villages of Zeravshan and the Sogd region.

For the most part, in the summer, the Matcha residents made do with only skullcaps. In the cool season, in the manner of the Fergana people, they tied a belt scarf embroidered around the edges around their heads.

Tajik shoes

Tajiks wore soft boots on their feet - massi, choruk. They were made from the skin of a mountain or domestic goat (in Matcha - from cow or lamb), and were bought at the market or ordered from a local shoemaker. Bashmakitkafsh - leather shoes with a wide closed toe and low backs - were worn mainly by old people.

The boots were put on foot wraps made of karbos or woolen fabric. They also wore woolen stockings with an unknitted heel - jurab; they were especially common in Match. Along the upper edge they were decorated with geometric patterns - squares, rhombuses, trapezoids, zigzags and straight parallel lines.

In the guise of beauties there is a miracle of beauty

Tajik folk costume, doll and magazine spread.

A set of women's winter and summer clothing consisted of a shirt - kurt, pants - izor, a light robe - munisak, scarves - bob, hat - kulut, boots - choruk. Women wore two types of shirts: kiftaki and peshkusho.

Girls and young women wore kiftakis. To feed the child, holes were made in them on the sides.

A shirt with a triangular neckline - peshkusho - was worn by older women; they began to wear it 4-6 years after marriage. To feed the baby, the seams between the waist and the side wedge were ripped open on both sides, the edges were trimmed with threads or edged with various fabrics of contrasting colors. Its edges were decorated with a trim made of paper or woolen threads.

The braid on both sides of the neckline was connected in one line and went down to the knees. Later it was edged only with a strip of some fabric.

Women's shirts, like children's and men's, were long and wide. In cool weather, only a light munisak robe was worn over them (in Matcha it was made with cotton quilting). In Sogd, Gissar and Matcha it was worn every day. Outside the mountains, in the Zeravshan Valley, at the end of the 19th century, the munisak almost went out of use, remaining as clothing for the elderly or for mourning. It was worn to funerals by close relatives of the deceased. The transformation of munisak into ritual clothing also occurred in other areas.

Izor pants - an indispensable attribute of a woman's costume - were worn on the hips, below the waist, and were long and wide. Their upper part was made of cheap material, such as karbos, and the lower part was made of expensive material, alchi or calico. At the bottom, the legs narrowed and fell in folds onto the foot. The laces used to tie up women's pants were made from cotton threads.

Women's laces were less elegant than men's - woolen, woven, with a pattern and tassels at the ends. She gave me her scarf, which is more delicate than petals. Headdresses of Tajik women - scarves and caps with a braid - kulata, without a braid - kul oh, as well as embroidered skullcaps. Kuluta were sewn with a lining; their winter versions were lined with a layer of cotton wool. The upper edge of the cap was slightly pulled together with a thick thread, leaving the top of the head open. A braid was sewn to the back of the kulut, sewn from below into a tube.

In Matcha, kulut caps were worn by women and girls in the Sogd and Samarkand regions, as well as in Penjikent and the upper reaches of Kashkadarya - mainly by elderly Tajiks, especially those who had reached 63 years old, the age of the Prophet Muhammad.

In former times, kuluta was worn under a headscarf (young women tied their heads with one, and older women with two).

Tajik women's jewelry included earrings, rings, bracelets, neck bands, beaded necklaces, as well as pendants for braids and scarves.