Keratin composition. NEW! Selecting keratin for your hair type

Keratin straightening is a procedure that allows you to straighten curly hair for a long time. For this purpose, a special composition is used, containing polymers, silicones, keratin, and aldehydes. To enhance the effect, the treated hair is smoothed with a hot iron.

Keratin straightening allows you to achieve not only perfectly straight strands. Thanks to the procedure, they become smooth, strong and shiny. The components included in the solution penetrate the hair and improve the structure. Silicones allow you to consolidate the resulting effect. The curls remain smooth for 4-5 months.

There are many products for keratin hair straightening. However, not every product copes well with its main task. In addition, a low-quality product damages curls, making them thin and brittle.

Rules for choosing quality keratin

  • The presence of formaldehyde in the composition (a component on which the quality of the procedure depends). Those with very curly hair should choose brands that include a high percentage of formaldehyde in the formula. But for girls with straight curls who simply want to improve the structure of their hair, products with minimal formaldehyde content are suitable. There are brands that include harmless cysteine.
  • To successfully complete the procedure, a hot iron must be used. The required heating temperature is indicated on the keratin packaging. The fewer degrees you need to straighten, the less damage your hair will experience.
  • Keratin straightening products differ in one more way - the time that is left on the strands before the first wash.

The best products for keratin straightening

  • Cocochoco.

This is Israeli keratin, which is used by most masters in our country to straighten hair. Unfortunately, its popularity is due not to good quality, but to low price. In all European countries, this product is prohibited because it contains a large amount of formaldehyde in its formula. Using Cocochoco will not cause serious problems, but it will still cause damage to your hair.

Another interesting point is that in Russia there is no official representative of the company that represents this brand. It follows from this that salons do not buy the product directly, but use the services of dubious companies. Is it worth talking about quality here? In essence, salons and masters are buying a “pig in a poke.” Before purchasing, it is better to ask the seller for a quality certificate. This will save you from buying a low-quality product.

Brazilian Blowout

This is an American product that is produced by the cosmetics company GIB Incorporated. In 2012, he became a leader in the production of keratin products for straightening curls. Its price is very high, so it is used only in expensive salons. In addition, there is an official company representative in the country who controls the supply and distribution of the product. Only certified salons and masters can buy it. Direct sales are carried out only through an official representative office.

The presence of an official representative office in the country is a very important criterion when choosing keratin for hair. This means that the products are certified, which excludes the sale of low-quality keratin. Brazilian Blowout is a product that contains natural ingredients. It contains no formaldehyde.

Curls are straightened due to organic protein compounds. Even young fashionistas can appreciate all its benefits, because keratin for straightening from this company can be used from the age of 12. Before deciding which product to choose, pay attention to this parameter.

Global Keratin

This is an American brand that appeared on the market in 2007. It is of average quality and relatively low price. Its main drawback is the lack of official representation in the CIS. This product is freely available throughout the country. The quality of products in Russia is not controlled by anyone, so when buying it, salons and masters greatly risk the health of their clients. The Global Keratin products we find here are cheap Chinese counterfeits. It is almost impossible to distinguish a fake from an original.

To verify the quality of the product, the supplier must be required to provide documents that will confirm the fact that it was brought from the USA and not from China. A fake can only be detected after using the product. The hair becomes beautiful, but at the same time it becomes very hard and dry. The quality of hair after the procedure deteriorates, it breaks and begins to fall out. In addition, after application, keratin emits a strong, unpleasant odor.

Hair Cosmetics

This is a straightening keratin that began its existence in 1989. Currently, it is one of the best keratin complexes. It can be washed off immediately after application, so it is suitable for those who lead an active lifestyle. A repeat procedure is carried out after 3 months.

Bio Ionic

This is a Brazilian keratin that allows you to achieve smooth and silky hair in 45 minutes. No other brand can straighten hair faster than this. The procedure consists of stage 1, since the product does not contain formaldehyde. These characteristics allow it to be used by those clients for whom every minute counts. For them, this is the best option.

Cadiveu

The product has a unique formula that includes raw materials from rich Amazonian forests, cocoa and panthenol. It is able to satisfy the requirements of even the most demanding clients and craftsmen. Cadiveu leaves hair hydrated, shiny and natural looking. Thanks to all these qualities, it is very popular in Russia.

Coppola Keratin Complex

Brazilian Keratin was created by celebrity stylist Peter Coppola. It makes hair shiny, silky and pleasant to the touch. Keratin eliminates 95% of frizz, so it is best used by clients with heavily curled hair.

Everyone decides for themselves which means to straighten strands. However, you should not skimp on your health and buy cheap products. Be sure to inquire whether the seller has a quality certificate. This will protect you from unexpected results of the procedure.

Do you want to try keratin hair straightening, but don't know which composition to choose?

Or have you already chosen the composition, but still doubt whether it is right for you?


You just need to answer a few questions:

1. Choose yours hair type:

A. Natural, tough, very curly.

B. Bleached/natural light, damaged, porous.

IN. Painted, brittle, dry, electrified.

G. Thin, prone to hair loss, curly.

2. Select Effect, which is paramount for you:

A. Very powerful straightening, I agree with a weaker restorative effect.

B. Intensive restoration with a smoothing effect (straightening at a good level)

IN. Intensive restoration with a weak straightening effect, the main thing is healthy hair.

G. Straightening and recovery are at a good level.

3. For what You come first pay attention when choosing keratin:

A. It is imperative that it has no pungent odor and restores well.

B. It is imperative that it has no aging period.

IN. It is imperative that it has a low cost.

G. It is imperative that it perfectly straightens any type of hair.

Now let's count total points for each answer:

So, which keratin is right for you:

IF YOU SCORED FROM 3 TO 5 POINTS, then keratin is suitable for you
This is a super-powerful straightening for any hair type with a good restorative effect. Keratin contains cocoa butter to give hair special shine and softness.

What is important to consider: When heated, keratin generates steam, and to avoid discomfort when using it, it is recommended to use a face mask.

This is a new straightening keratin without a strong odor with strong straightening properties.

It nourishes and heals your hair, maintaining its volume and natural beauty.
What is important to consider: This keratin does not straighten, but smoothes afro-curls (very hard and small curls) - removes “frizz” and unwanted curls, smoothes the cuticle

This is a special series for blond and colored hair with a powerful restorative effect. Keratin contains acai berry extract, which heals and smoothes your hair.

The optimal combination of straightening properties and relatively low cost of the product.

Suitable for any hair type, but especially recommended for colored and heat-treated hair.

Professional keratin, created specifically for treatment, not hair straightening.

You maintain your natural wave, giving your hair smoothness, strength, a healthy and well-groomed appearance. Down with split ends, electrification, dryness and confusion! Long live silky and smooth hair!

This is one of the very first keratins that perfectly treats hair. Its straightening properties are quite good, but it will not cope with tough curls.

Remember:

The right choice of keratin is 90% of straightening success!

Now hairdressing salons, cosmetics and household appliance stores offer enough options on how to make your hair smooth and silky. Which hair straightening method is better and safer? What advertising should you not trust? Let's find out in this article.

Method 1: Straightening with a hair straightener

Since its inception, the hair straightener (styler) has undoubtedly been the leader among methods for straightening unruly curls.
The advantages of this method are obvious:

  • the cost of the iron is relatively low, on average 2000 rubles, and you will use it for quite a long time;
  • you can use the straightener whenever you want, there is no need to run to the salon;
  • relatively quick hair straightening;
  • a well-chosen styler will not negatively affect your curls.

But there are also disadvantages:

  • Using a straightening iron very often is not recommended - it has a negative effect on the hair structure;
  • the effect of straightening with an iron is not long-term: rain or simply high humidity, washing your hair will return the hair to its original state;
  • It is very difficult to straighten hair that is too curly with one straightener; you will also have to use cosmetics, which may make your hair look unattractive;
  • low-quality models can ruin your hair even with infrequent use.

Trichologists (doctors) who treat hair and scalp diseases) recommend not saving on purchases quality hair straightener:

  • Be sure to choose a model with the ability to regulate the temperature - and try to set the temperature to no more than 180 degrees. The higher the temperature, the more hair is damaged. It is better to buy a straightener with tourmaline or Teflon coating, with humidification and ionization functions.
  • Never dry wet hair.
  • use restorative and caring hair products.
  • warn that products designed to protect hair when straightening with an iron do not provide 100% protection (although they help preserve hair). Still, you shouldn’t rely on them too much.

Method 2. Chemical hair straightening


Photo: modaellas.com

This method involves straightening the hair with a special chemical composition, which is applied to the hair, then washed off, after which the curls are treated with a special fixing solution and washed thoroughly again.
Pros of the procedure:

  • straightening is positioned as permanent, i.e. the hair will remain straight forever (except for growing roots, of course);
  • the price for obtaining permanently straight hair is from 6 to 20 thousand rubles. depending on length.
  • the procedure has a number of contraindications, for example, it cannot be done for pregnant women or during the postpartum period, those suffering from hypertension, seborrhea, abnormal metabolism, etc.;
  • the negative impact on hair of this method is colossal, because the chemical composition contains either sodium hydroxide (a strong alkaline substance), or guanidine hydroxide (a hair-drying agent), or ammonium thioglycolate, which also destroys the hair structure;
  • The permanentness of the procedure is relative, because the hair grows, which means it will have to be straightened again and again.


Photo: www.uncoverskincare.com

Separately allocate keratin hair straightening, which is positioned as a technology opposite to chemical straightening. Manufacturers and craftsmen claim that the main composition of the straightening product is liquid keratin. It is applied to the hair, filling damaged and injured areas, turning into a protective layer and giving the hair smoothness and shine.
In fact keratin cannot straighten hair, it is added to the composition of a cosmetic product as a moisturizer. The main active agents are the same aldehydes, mainly formaldehyde, which destroys bisulfide bridges in the hair, straightening it. Instead of keratin, which, according to manufacturers, fills damaged areas of hair, silicone is used, which makes the surface of the curls smoother, elasticity and shine appear.
That is, “keratin straightening” is the same chemical straightening, only called differently. Chemical is also Japanese hair straightening.
In general, in the case of keratin straightening, the longer the product promises to work for you, the more, as a rule, it damages the hair. Gentle products have a short validity period (for example, a month).
The best cosmetic brands of “keratin” straightening: Brazilian Blowout, Bombshell keratin, Cadiveu, Indola. If the master uses only cheap products (in Russia the most popular is CocoChoco) - you shouldn’t trust him with your hair.

Reviews about chemical hair straightening are very mixed. The first impression among girls and women (if straightening is done correctly) is usually enthusiastic. Hair looks amazing after the procedure. Disappointment comes later - when the composition begins to wash off from the hair - and then it turns out that the hair is damaged. There are enough scary photographs on the English-language Internet - what can happen if abused by this method. This is especially true for dark-skinned women - especially strong products are used to straighten their curls. For example:


Photo: img.thesun.co.uk

Therefore, if you decide to undergo chemical (keratin, Japanese, Brazilian, etc.) straightening, be prepared that the procedure will have to be repeated regularly - which, in general, is quite satisfactory for many - or then treated and restored. So for the experiment, choose the most gentle composition with a short stated validity period - and a proven, experienced technician.

A few words about choosing a hairdressing salon. The cost of “keratin” straightening is quite high and amounts (depending on the composition and length of the hair) to several thousand rubles. Therefore, it is very profitable for hairdressers to advertise this procedure - they make good money from it. Be careful when choosing a salon - read reviews, ask your friends, don’t look for a cheaper specialist. The desire to save money can lead to an inexperienced hairdresser ruining your hair with a low-quality product.

Method 3. Straightening hair using a hair dryer and hair dryer brush


Photo: content5.videojug.com

Hair that is not too curly can be made perfectly smooth using a hair dryer and a comb or a hair dryer brush. Wet hair must be treated with foam or gel, combed one strand at a time from top to bottom and also dried with a hairdryer in cold air mode. It is advisable that the hair dryer has an ionization function. The strands must be thin for the method to work accurately.
Pros:

  • a relatively harmless procedure, especially if performed with a stream of cold air;
  • The cost of a hairdryer is low, on average 1500 rubles, foam or gel are also inexpensive;
  • This straightening has no contraindications.

The disadvantages are:

  • the procedure is quite long;
  • the effect lasts only in dry weather; in rain, your hairstyle will lose its appearance;
  • Very curly hair cannot be straightened this way; only a slight wave can be achieved.

We recommend using cream mousse as a cosmetic styling product. Gliss Kur"Brilliant Chestnut. Restoration, shine and care" and foam Wellaflex for hot styling.

Method 4. Straightening with cosmetics

Shampoos, balms, masks, sprays, creams can make hair smooth for a short period of time.

  • cosmetics do not change the hair structure;
  • They are easy to apply during or after washing your hair; there is no need to spend a lot of time on the procedure.
  • cosmetics will not cope with very curly hair;
  • some products straighten hair due to the presence of silicone in their composition, which weighs down the hair, thus straightening it;
  • The average price for cosmetics is 500-700 rubles. One bottle of spray, for example, usually lasts about a month;
  • some products also contain substances that can damage hair

The best cosmetic products, according to buyers, are shampoo and conditioner Toni&Guy Straight & Protect(200-400 RUR), smoothing serum Paul Mitchell Super Skinny Serum(1000 rub.), line RedkenSmooth Down(shampoo, conditioner, mask, care-protection).

Method 5. Folk remedies

A rather controversial issue is hair straightening with folk remedies. Some people advise brewing slightly sweetened tea (1 teaspoon of sugar per 1 glass of tea) and rinsing your hair with this solution. Others recommend using masks and wraps based on oils: castrum, burdock, olive. Still others advise drying your hair naturally rather than with a hairdryer.

Of course, even if these methods work, their effect will be short-lived. For example, those with very curly hair will not benefit from natural drying.

Which hair straightening method is best?


Photo: www.bellesorriso.co.uk

Every woman must choose the best way to straighten her hair on her own. Many speak well of straightening with a comb and a hairdryer with foam, others praise straightening irons, and still others are delighted with the chemical method. In any case, you should always buy only high-quality devices (iron irons, hair dryers) and well-proven cosmetics. If you decide to undergo chemical straightening, make sure that the specialist is a professional and uses only high-quality products in his work.

Attention! There are contraindications, consultation with a specialist is required

Smooth, perfectly even, strong, glossy - hair like in advertising, isn't that a dream? Modern cosmetic companies actively offer beautiful ladies a method of hair straightening. A product that allows you to straighten even stubborn curls for quite a long time. Its composition includes polymers, keratin, aldehydes, which significantly improve the structure of the hair during the procedure. Silicone strengthens the resulting effect and prolongs it. The salon-like strands retain their effect for 4-6 months.

Can you achieve the hair straightening effect at home? Opinions were divided. Of course, the cost of professional keratin straightening is not small. And there are more and more adherents of everything “bio” made with one’s own hands every day. A short review of the Internet immediately yields a whole list of recipes that attract attention due to their naturalness and simple preparation. The effect is based not on keratin, but on natural protein. When mixed with other nutritional elements, according to adherents, it brings an absolutely amazing result. The only fly in the ointment is that the mask will need to be applied every day and after 2 weeks, when the nutrients accumulate and gradually begin to act, there will be a visible result.

If you decide that it is better to consult a specialist, you should carefully choose the drug. A low-quality product will not provide the expected effect and can seriously worsen the condition of the hair until it falls out. You don't want to switch to wigs, do you?

Criteria for choosing the right straightener brand:

  • formaldehyde content. This component determines how effective the process will be. The more it is, the more intense the effect on curls. Accordingly, owners of a “small demon” need a substance with a higher percentage of formaldehyde. If you have naturally straight hair and the goal is to improve its appearance, then it is better to use a low formaldehyde content;
  • What heating temperature of the iron is needed to seal this particular keratin? The lower the heat required, the better.
  • The last important difference is the “marinating” time. During this period, it is better not to wash off the keratin, do not collect the tail, do not pin it, or wear headbands. If you do not follow the rule, creases from the hoop and elastic band will remain with you for several months. With some products you can easily start using your hair the very next day, for others it is necessary for the difference to be 72 hours, otherwise the product will not have a full effect.

Smoothing is not a cheap pleasure, it is not done in one day. It’s worth thinking about the downsides before you set foot in a beauty salon.

The keratin straightening process takes place in several stages:

  • The hair is washed and dried a little so that water does not drip from it. Some manufacturers have special “deep cleaning” shampoos;
  • dividing the curls into strands starting from the occipital region, the master applies keratin and distributes it evenly, retreating slightly from the roots;
  • To successfully complete the reaction, the keratin is sealed, i.e., each strand is ironed. Heating temperature, depending on the manufacturer, from 180°C to 230°C. The hairdresser goes through each strand 10 times. IMPORTANT! Choose the right temperature so that the result is positive, while causing minimal damage to the hair;
  • the remaining keratin is washed off and the hair is styled. The process is complete.

Now let’s look at which manufacturers you can choose on the Russian market, and what our beauty experts work with.

Cocochoco is the most affordable and most popular keratin. Produced in Israel. It contains a high percentage of formaldehyde, which means it is suitable for girls with natural curls. You can’t wash it off right away, you need to leave it on for 72 hours. But! The manufacturer of the line does not have an official representative in Moscow. This means that you, the master, have a big risk of running into a fake. You always have the right to request a quality certificate so as not to purchase a “pig in a poke.”

Brazilian Blowout - produced in the USA, a record holder in its class. For several years in a row, GIB Incorporated has received awards for the release of this keratin. The price for one procedure using this product is from 6,000 rubles. The composition includes an ultra-nutritious complex that restores and strengthens hair, protecting it from UV radiation, breakage, and drying. The line includes several products designed for different tasks: straightening curls or gluing split ends. The unique composition, high quality and price make it a fairly expensive keratin, available in relevant salons.

There is an American representative in our country who monitors quality. Not sold at retail, available only to certified salons and craftsmen. There is no formaldehyde in the composition, smoothing occurs due to organic protein. Safe for hair, approved for use from 12 years of age.

Global Keratin is another American keratin on our market. It appeared relatively recently and gained popularity due to its good results and not inflated price. But! The probability of counterfeiting is very high, since there is no official representative in the CIS and the product is freely available. That is, hardworking scammers are churning out fakes and sending the goods to uncontrolled shelves. The risk is very high; a homemade drug does not have the desired effect. Hair becomes stiff, breaks, and begins to fall out.

In addition, a strong unpleasant odor is released during the procedure. It is impossible to identify an illegal immigrant by eye; always ask for documents confirming that the keratin was actually brought from the USA.

Hair Cosmetics is the best keratin complex. Produced since 1989. The peculiarity is that it can be washed off immediately, that is, you can wash your hair and style it. Perfect for those who lead an active lifestyle. The effect will last for 3 months.

Bio ionic - manufacturer - Brazil. The fastest keratin in terms of duration of action. The procedure takes only 45 minutes. It's simply impossible to go faster. Does not contain formaldehyde.

Cadiveu is the highest quality of drugs. It is very popular in our country due to its unique composition. Includes raw materials from the rich Amazonian forests, cocoa and panthenol. This provides powerful nutrition to the hair and makes it hydrated, shiny and natural, satisfying the most demanding hairdressers and clients.

Coppola Keratin Complex is a salvation product for curly strands; due to its high formaldehyde content, it eliminates up to 95% of hair frizz. Hair becomes shiny and silky to the touch. Made in Brazil.

Of course, these are not all brands. But it is unrealistic to make a complete overview of the market, where something new appears every day. Therefore, we only consider major brands.
Each of us decides for ourselves which hair straightening method to choose. But do not forget that unreasonable savings on yourself can lead to disastrous results. And, of course, the guarantee that your hair will stay with you is the quality of the products used. Be smart and vigilant and let your hair be your pride.

Which keratin hair straightening is best? In this article, we have tried to make a comparison of different keratin straightening kits to make your choice easier.

Let’s make a reservation right away: this material does not claim to be the truth in the first instance, we are just sharing with you reviews of our professionals and clients, observations from our own experience of using various products in our salons, and also presenting the opinions of some professional market participants (that is, dealers) keratin straightening products.

Also, our small study does not claim to provide complete coverage of the funds market. We used the most popular ones from our point of view, but the market is constantly changing, more and more new means are appearing. As far as possible, we will add to this section.

So, let's begin.

Kerarganic (Kerarganik)

    Production: USA

    Price: about 10,000 rubles for 1 liter (the price is for step 2, that is, for the keratin itself, without shampoo and mask).

    The manufacturer offers 3 types of working mixtures: “nulevka” (without formaldehyde), medium and reinforced compositions. The formaldehyde-free composition is frankly weak, the effect is not pronounced and does not last long. The strongest of them - ultra - has a good, lasting effect, but does not give a pronounced shine. However, we would not call this a disadvantage, rather a feature, because many women prefer just this, natural look of their hair after the procedure.

Also, a feature of this product for Brazilian straightening is a lower temperature mode for smoothing (210°C instead of the usual 230°C), which, according to the manufacturer, is a more gentle mode for hair.

Overall, in our opinion, the composition deserves attention, but it is not cheap and is not for everyone.

Brazilian Blowout

    Production: USA

    Price: about 17,000 rubles per 1 liter of working composition

    This manufacturer also has a composition without formaldehyde (zero), which is also noticeably weaker than the main one (solution). Among the features, it can be noted that it is applied to damp hair, and not to dry hair, like competing products. Perhaps this is why the manufacturer claims a one and a half times lower consumption of the product, which is a definite plus, especially at this price.

Keratin Reseach (Keratin Research)

    Production: USA

    Price: about 5000 rubles for 1 liter of working composition.

    This manufacturer is the undisputed price leader on the market. At least we don’t know of any other professional product that can be bought for less than 5 thousand rubles per liter. KeratinReseach2 has the following composition: “zero” and regular. Both formulations are positioned as having no unpleasant odor when applied and smoothed out, and as eliminating the need to not wash your hair for 3 days after application. What can I tell you... It has a smell when smoothing, and, according to some masters, it is even more disgusting than other products. As for the possibility of washing your hair that day, or the next day - in our humble opinion, any composition allows you to wash your hair after application. But the level and duration of the effect in this case will be significantly reduced. This composition, Keratin Research, is no exception to this rule.

Inoar (Inoar)

    Made in Brazil

    Price: about 8,000 rubles for 1 liter of the main mixture.

    This Brazilian manufacturer has a very wide range of products, we tried to work with only one of them, perhaps the most popular - Moroccan. According to our observations, the composition copes well with the task of straightening hair, but the restorative effect leaves much to be desired - there is little shine and does not last very long. Perhaps because our customers washed their hair the same day, which is allowed by this manufacturer; perhaps for some other reasons. But the fact remains a fact. As for the smell when smoothing, we also cannot say that this is an additional bonus of this composition: it smells strong, and not at all like roses.

Cadeveu

    Made in Brazil

    Price: about 10,000 rubles for 1 liter of working composition step2.

    This manufacturer also has a large line, but only one composition is popular: Brazil Cacau. Has a strong odor; in addition, the composition apparently includes acetic acid, which further increases irritation of the eyes and nasal mucosa when smoothing. Recently, one of our colleagues sent a link to an article that talked about the withdrawal of several hundred tons of keratin mixtures of various brands from sale in Italy due to exceeding the permissible formaldehyde content. Among the brands known to us, Cadeveu was also on this list. The advantages of this composition include the fact that the hair is washed immediately after straightening, as well as a good, pronounced effect of both straightening and restoration. Overall, a powerful and well-proven product. But, unfortunately, the price cannot be called democratic.

Global Keratin

    Production: USA

    Price: about 18,000 rubles for 1 liter of step2 composition

    This composition, like BrazilianBlowout, can be classified as a lux-class composition. It, like BrazilianBlowout, is actively advertised; It is used by many luxury salons, and it is also very expensive. Frankly speaking, it is difficult for us to say what determines this price. In accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, you can wash your hair after straightening 48 hours later, that is, almost the same 3 days. The effect is good, but a little less pronounced than Cadeveu or CocoChoco. But, in fairness, it must be said that Global Keratin also has its regular fans.

Cocochoco (Cocochoco)

    Manufacture: Israel

    Price: about 6000 rubles for 1 liter of the main composition

    There are 3 types in the line - regular (COCOCHOCOKERATINTREATMENT, there is almond and without additives), and PURECERATINTREATMENT. The Pure version is intended for heavily bleached and ashy hair; it gives less yellowness, but is itself a little weaker. Cocochoco, despite conflicting reviews, remains one of the most popular keratin straightening products used in salons. This popularity does not fall, despite the fact that the use of this composition requires not washing your hair for 72 hours after the procedure. Why? The answer is very simple - this composition really works. Salons (and our salon is no exception) do not really like to accept complaints from clients due to the fact that keratin straightening did not bring the desired result, that the effect was insufficient or disappeared a month after application. Therefore, everyone tries to use a reliable product, which is Cocochoco. In addition, it has an attractive price compared to many competitors.

Related publications